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Post by jjack010 on Jul 7, 2013 20:36:57 GMT -6
Alright folks, a little background. I'm 35 yrs old and have been around racing for a while. I've been in the military for 16 of those yrs so it's always hit or miss for racing, since I'm gone often. My previous experience has been racing figure 8 asphault cars in the midwest. I have a total of 2 seasons and caught on pretty quick. THIS IS MY FIRST TIME ON THE DIRT!  It's in my blood so I'm at it again. I want to build an IMCA hobby stock on a budget. Not a junker, but keep in mind its called "Hobby Stock."  I would really like input from some of you experienced racers out there and help me get this on the track. I'm starting with the motor and would like to get it all on paper and then get to work. I will post the IMCA Hobby stock rules in my next post in case you're not familiar with them. I just bought a car, early 80's Monte. Thats a metric car right? Tomorrow Im going to look at a short block. Suppose to be a fresh .60 over 350 with new pistons, King HP bearings. I'm guessing stock rods with flat tops, won't know until tomorrow. The guy is asking $450. Is this a reasonable price for a fresh short block? Sure seems to be in this area..These guys want an arm and testicle for junkyard motors! 361 is the max cubes for a gm block and with this shortblock I'll be at 360.4, so I think I'm on the right path. Next I'll need to select cylinder heads. No aluminum. I have to choose from the castings listed in the rules. 76cc rule so no camel humps or vortecs. They do allow one aftermarket head but I don't want to spend 1500 on the heads. If so, I wouldn't be building a Hobby Stock. Any recommendations? Intake- I can run any unaltered low rise cast iron 2 bbl intake (awesome, huh) or choose between a Edelbrock GM #2701 or a Weiand GM #7547,#7547-1. I am willing to splurge here and get the best intake I can run. Exhaust- I'm allowed cast iron OEM exh manifolds only. I've heard LT1 manifolds will work and flow pretty good. No center dump manifolds. Alright thats enough for now. Looking forward to your input and thanks in advance! |
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 7, 2013 20:41:15 GMT -6
IMCA HOBBY STOCK RULES (i only clipped applicable engine rules)
(B) CLAIM ENGINE: Any American make engine allowed. BLOCK: OEM steel passenger vehicle production block only. No GM Bowtie, Ford SVO or Chrysler W components allowed.GM approved block numbers are: 10105123, 10066034, 3892657, 3914660, 3914678, 3932388, 3932386, 3956618, 3970000, 3970006, 3970010, 3970014, 10066033, 10066036, 10243880,14010207, 14010209, 14010287, 14016376, 14016379, 10054727, 14088528, 14088548, 14088552, 14093638, 14101148. Stroke must match block. No 400 or larger cubic inch parts
allowed. Maximum 361 cubic inches (GM); 363 (Ford); 370 (Chrysler). Violation of cubic inch limit must be verified by removal of head and will result in disqualification, loss of all IMCA
points for the season, $1,000 fine and a 30-day suspension. Maximum compression ratio is nine to one, no tolerance. Compression ratio checked using Whistler and cubic inches checked
using pump, OR by visual inspection of part and/or casting numbers, pistons, etc (track option which method is used). Flat top or dish pistons only, no gas ported pistons. OEM or OEM
appearing replacement steel crankshaft only – cannot be lightened. No aerowing, bullnose, knife edge, undercut or drilling of second or third rod throws. OEM or OEM appearing replacement
steel rods only – GM 5.7 inch, 6 inch or GM Vortec rod part number 10108688 allowed. Cap screw allowed. No splayed main caps. Conventional flat tappet cam and lifters only, cannot alter
lifter bores. OEM firing order cannot be changed (GM: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). May use oil restrictors. ‘Wet’ sump oiling system only. Steel oil pans only. Racing oil pans allowed. Mandatory
one inch inspection hole in all pans - no obstructions to crank and rods. Accumulator allowed, must be mounted under hood. CYLINDER HEADS: Steel only. Must be unaltered approved
OEM and minimum 76 cc combustion chamber (GM). Only GM OEM approved head numbers are: 14079267, 3986336, 3986339, 3986339X, 3986388, 3932441, 376445, 3928454,
3932454, 3876487, 3973487, 3973487X, 3973493, 3951598, 468642, 330862, 333882, 3998920, 3998991, 3998993, 3998997, 3970126. Maximum size valves on these heads are 2.02
inch intake and 1.60 inch exhaust. May use Stock Replacement (SR) cylinder heads, Engine Quest (EQ) GM part number CH350I, (EQ) Chrysler part number CH318B, World Products
Ford part number 53030 - 1.250 inch (± .015 tolerance) maximum O.D. valve springs. All SR heads must remain as produced, seat angles and valve sizes can not be changed: three angle
valve job only (absolutely no casting removal in valve pocket of EQ or World Products head, for any reason); Ford - no SVO heads; Chrysler - no W-2 heads, 360 cubic inch heads only. No
porting, polishing or unapproved alterations allowed to any cylinder head or intake, disqualification and $250 fine if illegal. Guide plates, screw-in shouldered studs (GM 0.375 inch max)
and polylocks allowed. No stud girdles. Steel roller tip rocker arms allowed. GM - 1.250 inch (± .015 tolerance) maximum O.D. valve spring, no beehive valve springs allowed. INTAKE:
Unaltered, approved OEM cast iron, low-rise, two barrel intake. Only unaltered (no porting or polishing) aftermarket aluminum intakes allowed are: Weiand GM #7547, #7547-1; Ford #7515,
#8023 or #7516; Chrysler #7545, 8022; Edelbrock GM #2701; Ford #7121, #7181, #7183; Chrysler #2915. Unaltered OEM type harmonic balancer only. OEM type steel or aluminum water
pumps only.
16. EXHAUST: OEM cast iron exhaust manifolds only. No center dump type manifolds. Exhaust manifold can be ported and drilled to fit. No adaptor allowed between manifold and head. Crate engine must use maximum two inch O.D. exhaust pipes. Claim engine may use maximum 2.5 inch O.D. exhaust pipes. Exhaust must extend past firewall and turn toward ground. Must remain dual exhaust, no crossover or ‘Y’ pipes. No exhaust sensors or wrap. Mufflers recommended.
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Post by confused on Jul 7, 2013 20:59:18 GMT -6
My opinion, the "882" heads and either the Weiand or the Edelbrock intakes. I like Edelbrock but that's just me. Spend your money ona good cam combination and a good carburetor. Use the screw in studs and guide plates. Anything that you can do to stabilise the valve train. Call several cam manufacturers for thier advice. Give them all of the information for your motor and car combination.
Build a reliable motor and focus on learning how to drive and set up the car. More wins are had with a good set-up and good driver than a big motor.
Don't lose sight of the fact this is just a hobby and supposed to be for fun.
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 7, 2013 21:13:14 GMT -6
I'm considering getting that short block and then heading to the salvage yard to look for some heads. Should save some $$ that way. I wish I could find a complete motor locally and just freshen it up, then spend my hard earned money in area's where it counts.
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Post by street16 on Jul 8, 2013 11:40:58 GMT -6
Go to the track you'll be racing at and talk to some of the drivers. Most will be forth coming with information about springs, shocks, stagger, and gear ratios and anything else that you may think of. And some may have some parts for sale - it's mid season, so some of the drivers may be running low on money (like me) and be willing to part with good stuff.
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 8, 2013 11:50:39 GMT -6
Good point, and our closest track is closing next month! Really crappy.
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Post by confused on Jul 8, 2013 16:04:03 GMT -6
Where are you at? Killeen?
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 8, 2013 17:36:24 GMT -6
Yep, you?
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 8, 2013 17:41:47 GMT -6
I looked at the block and it looks great. I also went to the junk yard and located 441,993 and plenty of 882 heads. Also found a set of Lt1 exhaust manifolds. Basically want to see what's available and what it's gonna cost. Still looking for a turn key car, but for now crunching numbers to see how much it's gonna take to build.
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Post by confused on Jul 8, 2013 18:27:06 GMT -6
Elgin. Talk to Ben Ketteman(Modified 37). He may be able to help you some with parts. Tell him Wayne (WS Chassis) sent you.
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 8, 2013 18:31:35 GMT -6
Ok, thanks. I suppose I'll be running waco soon.
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Post by confused on Jul 8, 2013 19:08:30 GMT -6
He's racing there too for this season. Don't know about next year. Depends on what Gene does.
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 9, 2013 21:10:36 GMT -6
Understandably
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Champ2x36
Pit Crew
Just an old racer!
Posts: 10
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Post by Champ2x36 on Sept 1, 2013 14:20:48 GMT -6
jjack010, if you come across some of the #3986336 heads grab them. A lot of guys consider them the better heads of the "smog" heads (the 76cc heads you've gotta run). They're some of the earlier "smog" heads from around '71 when GM had dropped the compression ratios and gone to the "smog" heads. They are the heavier castings so they won't crack as easily as the "882" heads, and will have a little more meat left in them after they've been milled for a clean up cut. In my experience, with 2 barrel carb and stock exhaust rules like you have, you don't want to go too tight on LSA (lobe spacing angle)on the cam. I've had best luck with 2 barrels running a l08* LSA. Isky and Howards both have cams that will work well with your rules.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 25, 2014 5:40:06 GMT -6
Be sure to add cooling holes to your gaskets or buy the correct gaskets to cool the .060-350. Distilled water cools best if not contaminated by others! A 3/4-7/8 thermostat washer works best on most! A little extra fuel helps to cool it also with a little trany fluid for a top lube to stop friction inside! My .060-350 runs 150 degrees and at 2500RPMs you can pull frost off of the cast stock intake in 2.5 minutes on pump gas! A lot of horses gained in cooling but you can't make this happen at 160 degrees! Do all the research you can on cooling and vacuum in the engine producing torque!
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It's in my blood so I'm at it again.
I would really like input from some of you experienced racers out there and help me get this on the track. I'm starting with the motor and would like to get it all on paper and then get to work.
