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Post by duckhnter83 on Dec 5, 2013 19:58:38 GMT -6
One very important item to remember, driving a four-bar car is different than driving a 2/3 link. You need to be much smoth with your hands AND feet. The only way to improve is seat time. If you have someone with experience to help you, the learning curve will be much shorter. Some drivers don't use a 90/10 and some do. It affects the manner the car enters the turns. I don't use one. If I get completely out of the throttle, the car is very loose on entry. I need to stay in the throttle some while braking. This style also helps to keep the suspension loaded. What do you mean by 90/10?
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Post by confused on Dec 5, 2013 20:14:34 GMT -6
It is the shock mounted above the rearend. It is used to control the deceleration unwrapping of the rearend housing. The original intent was to control wheel hop from braking caused by extreme pull bar angles. It can be used to tune entry. Generally, the commen valving is 9 comp,1 rebound although any valving can be used. When I ran one, I liked used a 5/3 or 6/4 valving.
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Post by Krooser on Dec 10, 2013 0:38:47 GMT -6
FYI your 360 sprint motor will likely be illegal in an IMCA mod… sportmod or otherwise. Study the rules and find a few guys running those cars and ask some questions… most drivers are more than willing to help you out.
I kinda think you are in the NE Wisconsin area? There are a lot of cars for sale that can be bought for fair prices. My son just bought a WISSOTA B-mod and he and I looked at several cars in and out of the area that were good values and priced reasonably.
You may be able to work a deal with a guy who has his car parked for lack or funds… bring some cash or an engine to the deal and you may be able to get a ride in '14.
There are several FB pages with mods for sale in your area… Wisconsin Racer Classifieds is one… start making some connections and get going. My son will be a rookie next year at age 41… you had better start making memories now!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 28, 2014 19:39:55 GMT -6
I helped a friend last year with a 3 link j-bar car that had trouble keeping both ft wheels on the track! A hand-full at it's best in a southern b-mod class. A pan hard bar is easier to drive and can be made to hook! Angles and rear percentages along with leverage from center out can pull both front wheels! A few motor alterations helped to put those horses down the track to win! Corralling the horses in the corner can speed you along!
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