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Brakes
Dec 26, 2013 4:33:19 GMT -6
Post by thurston on Dec 26, 2013 4:33:19 GMT -6
Ok so I have been using those new plastic or neopreme lines for a few years now never having any issues. no melt downs or lines bursting. now I will say went even as far as using really new ones with push in fittings like air lines on a truck. but seen those fittings fail first hand, deffenitally won't be using them again. but I use brass fittings. People argue with me over the fact that these "plastic lines" stretch uner load. aurguing over side wall strength. Ok proven fact!! yes they do stretch but hear is my two cents about this!! done some research on this " a little". now my driver says under normal situations he has never had to use to much brake pressure to stop out there on thrack!! now even under brake pressure up to 1000 pounds or better for bleeding, never felt that he never had any loss or failure of brakes. Even did temp temp test right in tech lane on fluid and found no real big temps after a 30 lap no caution feature. now that I have sais this, what are peoples thoughts on this subject!! love to hear from you guys!!
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Brakes
Dec 26, 2013 4:38:27 GMT -6
Post by thurston on Dec 26, 2013 4:38:27 GMT -6
JUst something to add to my posting!! I have always ran brake bias gauges because I use it as a tool with my driver as much as he does out there on the track. knowing where you start and knowing where there are after races allows me to gain more info on what the driver is giving as far as info on what the car feels like for him.
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Brakes
Dec 26, 2013 11:11:55 GMT -6
Post by clbaker25x on Dec 26, 2013 11:11:55 GMT -6
Our current car we got with plastic lines, but are going to switch it over to steel lines this winter. We haven't had any specific problems with the plastic, but just would like to have the security of knowing the lines are not flexing and reducing our brake effectiveness.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Brakes
Dec 26, 2013 17:16:11 GMT -6
Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2013 17:16:11 GMT -6
I run steel lines. I just cant see any reason to run the nylon. I have never lost a race because I ran steel lines. I dont have brake issues, never have to replace, there is no real measurable weight savings. A roll of steel line is cheep. And I like the look and fit of a well bent line. I guess the other is fine also, just have no reason to change what has always worked for me. Now if someone can prove a performance gain, then Im all ears, but I havent seen that yet. Just my .02
Dave
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Brakes
Dec 27, 2013 17:15:40 GMT -6
Post by thurston on Dec 27, 2013 17:15:40 GMT -6
love it guys!!! love the feed back!!I really don't have a preference. I will say I used to help a guy who bought a new chassis sometimes two and always got them late and I always went with plastic simply because I took a lot less time to run them. Now I don't know about anyone else but I don't drill holes in my chassis and I won't let anyone else ether. got my gauges today, now I can bleed the system.
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Brakes
Dec 29, 2013 11:45:54 GMT -6
Post by mod10c on Dec 29, 2013 11:45:54 GMT -6
Saw the new Victory Chassis at the PRI show, it had vinyl lines on it. It was Randy Havlik's car. We ran them on a DW8 but, changed them every 2 seasons just because. We never had any problem with them. really liked them when it came to bleeding the brakes, we could watch for any air bubbles.
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Brakes
Dec 29, 2013 17:12:32 GMT -6
Post by thurston on Dec 29, 2013 17:12:32 GMT -6
thanks mod10c we also change them often, more like every year. But yes it makes it nice to be able to see air bubbles. I change them often because of stretching of lines under big braking applications. so for that reason alone it gets done. when it only takes less then twenty minutes to replace and re-bleed systems like that it is very nice. But still stand tall on the fact that steel lines are the better choice, but still fail just not as often!
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Brakes
Feb 26, 2014 7:32:44 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 26, 2014 7:32:44 GMT -6
We have had both to fail or leak! Vibration on steel caused the problem and o rings on the plastic! Quick repair in a damaged situation and ease of insolation is a plus for me! As for bleeding, a hose on the bleeder submerged in some fluid one at a time makes the task quick and easy when using the pedal to bleed with no help! Makes the job cleaner too!
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Brakes
Mar 10, 2016 21:38:44 GMT -6
Post by ken47 on Mar 10, 2016 21:38:44 GMT -6
I am new to racing and am setting a modified car up right now. Best I can tell..."I'm a noob" I am running a 360 class. Not real sure. I am not even sure as to what year/make frame I am running. There were no identifying marks on it. I am curious about front brake set-up. Should I run some type of reducer to my right side as to not get as much braking there or just leave it alone and use the brake bias to reduce all front braking when needed?
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Brakes
Apr 13, 2016 19:19:06 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by dirtmod22 on Apr 13, 2016 19:19:06 GMT -6
Ken we run a electric right front shut off for when needed. Helps keep car from pushing when track bad. And also make sure you have a bias knob in the car for front to rear. It makes a big difference in getting car set into corner. My .02
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