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pullbar
May 20, 2014 7:42:50 GMT -6
Post by dirtmod16 on May 20, 2014 7:42:50 GMT -6
my pullbar keeps breaking or bending on de acceleration at the point where swedge tube and the spring join it is a three way pullbar . I ran the same pullbar for the last 3 years without any problems we do have a new car but there are two other cars that are the same chassie racing at the same track that are not breaking theirs. any help would be greatfull |
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pullbar
May 20, 2014 20:06:09 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on May 20, 2014 20:06:09 GMT -6
Look for signs of hitting or binding sideways, with a lot of angle on the j-bar comes side thrust in the brackets on the differential! It may need a new bushing inside to keep it from cocking or binding on a corner of the slides! The threaded part does grip if not smooth with slight play! A shock may help or check the tracking when hiked! Joints need WD40 every race!
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pullbar
May 20, 2014 22:21:23 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by dirtmod16 on May 20, 2014 22:21:23 GMT -6
Thanks I will check for binds i do spray all heims every race....
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pullbar
May 21, 2014 7:04:10 GMT -6
Post by washeduptoo on May 21, 2014 7:04:10 GMT -6
Are you running a dampner shock on rear end? We have been using a threaded DOM tubing for pull bar, we get ours from Lightning Chassis. Best of luck.
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pullbar
May 21, 2014 7:16:23 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on May 21, 2014 7:16:23 GMT -6
We ran this for years but found a better way using a biscuit-ed pull bar and a shock change and adjustment of angles to be better suited for our purpose! Less movement helped fight off mother nature in rear steering being at a more constant with-out transitions taking up time or drive-ability with no hiking involved! Finally down to a straight pull bar and a pan-hard bar for a much smoother and easier win! All set-ups can get complex at times with all the movements used in a now kind of hiking that was used 20 years ago also! Understanding of them all is the key to knowing what works for and against you as driver wants and needs kicks in! Anyone can drive a car if the car works by its self instead of against mother nature! Check out all my post to see just how it works and make your own set up calls once grasping the simple one at a time operations of it all!
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pullbar
May 21, 2014 7:43:18 GMT -6
Post by dirtmod16 on May 21, 2014 7:43:18 GMT -6
I am not running a dampner shock. I have always used a spring pull bar but hear a lot of guys are going to a biscuit bar. Its just a wierd deal i borrowed a pull bar from a guy the second week ours broke then the next week put ours back in with new parts ran qualifing and heat no problem then it broke 5th lap in feature. Everytime is on de accel and breaks at the same spot where the swedge tube screws into the spring assem . We are running the same set up the other two cars are running and they are having no problems my pull bar is a little different design, mine has a shorter swedge tube and a longer spring assembly than theirs. Thanks for the info...
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pullbar
May 22, 2014 19:19:12 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on May 22, 2014 19:19:12 GMT -6
If not enough threads or if not tapered on the end, or if jam nut is over tightened stretching tube in the threaded part where it is thin! This could be a softer sleeve and needs a thicker or harder sleeve! Lifting hard can throw things left as the j-bar drops and shoves as well as the back thrust! Two forces at once! Well--- four counting Murphy's law and Mother nature! A outer pipe with sleeves in each end, over it all may help! I have done this for the same purpose of not wanting to change things! Good luck with your next one!
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