metric rear trailing arms(lower) ???

Bar angles do hold true to reactions in movement! On our stock chassis we lean them left and raise or lower the chassis to change steer! Bite is more the uppers location as well as lowers but mostly left to a good rear percent of 60-61 with help of transfer and ign. timing falling while in the turn to hook and be on the floor!

We never had to move anything from stock location on our limited mod. cars to win!  Though we did have to correct some to make them work and be legal after builders mishap in not considering passing tech or a twisted tube moving the rear end to open!   If leaning the car left and only rolling to level while in the corner, a bolt to floor measurement ft. and rear on each arm per side (with driver) of 1/4 higher on the bolt (measuring from the level floor up to lt. ft. lower bar) to (3/4-1 1/8 right side ft. lower bar) ( which is more than rear bolt measurement) with only 1/2 inch roll out and two inches of travel at the shocks! One up and one down! Yes I know this runs your rear closed and doesn't steer very much at all and such little roll out is hardly enough to heat a tire, but it served us well! Imagine driving a fork truck at 89 miles per hour and making a turn, or a  stock car at 200 mph!!! If the right side lower bar is level and is rolled down instead of leveling when rolled, It closes when rolled!  The hiking of only the left to steer ( when right side goes negative from being set level) will close and loose steer in the turn but with that much left hike you may have too much steer! Mother nature is in control in some cases of steer rates and not you! We just let her do her thing while on our way to the front! More roll more steer, top-angle more level- less traction when lifted or bottom bar angles- more up hill ( in the front of the lower bar for more steer and drive) and with the front end settings added neg. caster to make sure the old gal keeps her game on at high speeds! Its a package deal as is any set-up to work correctly but with less work to get through the corners with her ( mother nature)  helping to steer! The rt. ft. shock does move 3 inches but most of that is in the upward movement when transfer of weight to the left rear when on the throttle! Thrust angles of traction can be diminished by the lower differential bracket locations as well as the top! It takes two (top and bottom) to have max traction per wheel! A almost level right lower bar gives the upper more angle down for traction control of the left rear! The right side pull point being father away from center of axle is less traction as it holds and doesn't let the twist apply to the top for lifting to add traction by picking up the car in the middle where it is heaviest at! A good hefty rear percent puts your weight centered at this lift point or no traction occurs in the fight of the two pulling in different directions! This only leaves others to only lift with ease needing a great wheel movement of the left to add traction! I prefer the added weight on the left, rear and low to minimize roll, needless steer, loss of traction, minimize weight transfer to the nose in the corner and using it to lessen rear hike instead of adding air down force on the whole car by the angle change! I 'd rather lift the front ( when on the throttle) to get air under the car making it lighter instead of applying more down force and hauling the air load! Just a little food for thought if you are still hungry to win!

flipflopoo1oo, i can never understand what your saying. its like talking with peanut butter stuck to the roof of your mouth! please proof read an see if you can help us understand a lil easier! thank you

sooooooooo in between races your resetting the front end?