|
Post by s240ka24t on Jun 20, 2014 7:54:25 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by oldtrackchamp4x on Jun 20, 2014 13:50:36 GMT -6
I had the same issue and i just moved the bottom mounting of the net to the inside of the top door bar. Worked for me. JMO
|
|
|
Post by confused on Jun 20, 2014 16:18:46 GMT -6
After you plate the door bars like they should be, run a verticle piece up from that, on the inside of the net. On the outside, run a horizontal piece with a flange bent down, to the verticle piece. Rivet them togethor with the net in between.
|
|
|
Post by s240ka24t on Jun 20, 2014 21:34:11 GMT -6
Thanks for the replies. A guy i work with runs a usra Street Stock (outlaw) His window net is rivited to the inside top door bar? Is this acceptable? The rules state "Window Net mounting must be welded to frame" Technically speaking if its mounted to the door bars, the door bars are part of the frame. Maybe a little minipulation of the rules I guess. Here is what I got so far
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 21, 2014 1:02:09 GMT -6
Watch out for the two piece pinching your butt and air flow with lapping! All the nets I see are popped with steel rivets, through the guide and flat strap to inside door bars!
|
|
|
Post by s240ka24t on Jun 21, 2014 6:30:41 GMT -6
Watch out for the two piece pinching your butt and air flow with lapping! All the nets I see are popped with steel rivets, through the guide and flat strap to inside door bars! Never thought about the butt pinch, it was two pieced when I got the car just thought id do the same think. Knowing im a novice at all this and still ignorant. What do u mean "air flow with lapping"? Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by confused on Jun 21, 2014 7:13:34 GMT -6
Never rivet window nets!!! The mounts should be welded to the cage. If they are long like your back one, they should be braced well. A net is there to keep your arms and head inside the cage.
|
|
|
Post by s240ka24t on Jun 21, 2014 18:55:11 GMT -6
Ok. What about using a piece if flat steel stock running through bottom of net and bolting through the top door bar? Or what are some other options
|
|
|
Post by Krooser on Jun 21, 2014 20:31:22 GMT -6
1/4" rod welded to the top door bar works well….
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 21, 2014 21:18:47 GMT -6
Our net comes with a 3/4 by 1/8 strip to be inserted and popped securely to the inside bars with steel rivets provided! Over the top to the rear with decking for a smooth air flow unless a strength or easy change factor! Our two shops are well equipped and years of metal working after the fact! Make a template of all the most to get damaged panels and have extras when you need one! Running two alike cars and 2 very different drivers 2-3 nights a week doesn't leave much time for repairs on the fly state to state! I once had to straighten a door panel after it was balled up by being ran over by every car on the track (on-purpose) to be allowed into our next race! Some big races have multi heats to qualify! Fewer rivets with braces seems to be less damage to the metal if just bent, other-wise ripped to threads when torn out! Yeah when half way in or out and your ass is pinned and needs help to get loose, its driver errrrrrrrrr! Glad I didn't build that one! Serious racing is when the driver complains that the stack of tubing is getting thin and not that he's having trouble getting to the front!
|
|
|
Post by confused on Jun 21, 2014 22:05:53 GMT -6
Weld tabs to the door bar that a rod can go through. Pin the rod on each end so it doesn't slide out. Like your existing front net mount. Don't drill holes in the cage either unless you want those bars to tear under impact.
Also, if you plan to run under a sanctioning body, the door bars should be plated with a minimum of .049"(18ga) steel.
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 21, 2014 23:06:47 GMT -6
They do require us to dill holes to gauge tubing for tech! Some in places can relieve stress as to bending rather than cracking! The powder coating process was designed for this purpose of structural stress removal of being brittle by welding! Over baking is not good either! My wife is always messing up with my food's structure, then I become more brittle!
|
|
|
Post by phantom309 on Jun 23, 2014 23:42:41 GMT -6
Good ?, Good answers! I reiterate, Plate the door bars, no pop rivets, NO through bolts and only rules mandated holes in cage. Weld the mounts. Also on window nets make sure you can put up/take down easily when in car with gloves on. Net should be 18"x24". I use a net with 8 horizontal and 10 vertical webs. Don,t down your deck work! Looks pretty good to me. Remember you must be able to enter and exit your car from both sides with full race gear on, i.e= Helmut, Hans device ect. Make sure you can and practice doing so! I know this don't answer your ?s, just want you to be safe. Phantom309
|
|
|
Post by s240ka24t on Jun 29, 2014 7:01:33 GMT -6
Hey guys, thanks for all your replies. It is and was very helpful, I haveit secured and ready for decking around the gauge area.
This is going to be more difficult then I thought. I like to sit close to my steering wheels even in my daily driver I don't mind knees slightly bent. I feel more comfortable and in control this way. My seat is in comfortable position relitive to steering and pedals. I notice My height is an issue. I am short 5' 5", and my view was very much obstructed when I bought the car.(old decking) The gagues were all placed above the steering column bar. The wind deflection panel was over 5" above this bar. If I place my gauges above steering column bar the height would leave me with 4" of obstruction as the decking is about 1 1/2" above the column bar.
I would like to keep my dash config low profile as possible, If I place my gauges at deckhight and blow I feel myself looking down alot to view them. I know I wont be focusing on them a whole lot, but the first few times out it would be rather important to see data to help set up car properly. I know they have a 30" curved Lexon windscreen for wind deflection. It is and aditional expence that I honestly don't find nessessary just yet as I have so much left overs from the decking to make a small deflection panel The only other issues I see with this is my metal brakes arn't that tight due to home built brake. I also have to have some sort of acess panel
Maybe you guys can post up some pics of your cockpits to help with some ideas? I have looked online and havent found much. Thanks for all your help this forum has deffintally been an advantage for me as I am completely new to all this. Thanks agian
Steven
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2014 8:38:28 GMT -6
|
|