em5m
Pit Crew
Posts: 19 
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lf flying
Aug 7, 2014 20:00:19 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by em5m on Aug 7, 2014 20:00:19 GMT -6
Still fighting to keep lf tire down!!! 54%left. 55%rear 80-90lbs. Lr. 225 rr spring ahead of axle with 4 shock. 200 lr spring behind with an extreme easy up shock ahead of axle. Both sides floated and a lr brake floater. Carries lf tire most of straight away!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 8, 2014 0:23:06 GMT -6
Hiking the left rear adds so much cross that it just falls over there! A negative 4 degrees of the left lower should keep the hike down! Take away some left and increase right drive! It pulls up until the rt. rear is loaded! Loading it with drive holds the lt. ft down! This will let roll out work to get you around and straighten up faster getting off! Then little roll out will be needed taking the drag out of the straights of one wheel bigger and locked together and having to roll the same! Keeping the left front preloaded keeps the right rear preloaded and more traction! Less open and steer is needed with roll out actually working correctly! Indexing on the bars or excessive j-bar angles too can cause hike that carries the drive angles to extremes in hiking and this is no longer needed also! Then if all is not lifting, the load against the pull bar or fifth arm is more and traction takes place at a lower height sooner! Less air drag against a flatter angled chassis allows the air to hit the spoiler harder at the rear providing more down force for even more traction! Can you see a change in your near future in this understanding??? Stop the hike and no chain stop needed! More traction if not ridged!!! Any one thing may work to get the wheel down but why stop there??? Regroup and recoup what most just can't see in too easy that has always worked to win!
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em5m
Pit Crew
Posts: 19
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lf flying
Aug 8, 2014 8:22:36 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by em5m on Aug 8, 2014 8:22:36 GMT -6
Hiking the left rear adds so much cross that it just falls over there! A negative 4 degrees of the left lower should keep the hike down! Take away some left and increase right drive! It pulls up until the rt. rear is loaded! Loading it with drive holds the lt. ft down! This will let roll out work to get you around and straighten up faster getting off! Then little roll out will be needed taking the drag out of the straights of one wheel bigger and locked together and having to roll the same! Keeping the left front preloaded keeps the right rear preloaded and more traction! Less open and steer is needed with roll out actually working correctly! Indexing on the bars or excessive j-bar angles too can cause hike that carries the drive angles to extremes in hiking and this is no longer needed also! Then if all is not lifting, the load against the pull bar or fifth arm is more and traction takes place at a lower height sooner! Less air drag against a flatter angled chassis allows the air to hit the spoiler harder at the rear providing more down force for even more traction! Can you see a change in your near future in this understanding??? Stop the hike and no chain stop needed! More traction if not ridged!!! Any one thing may work to get the wheel down but why stop there??? Regroup and recoup what most just can't see in too easy that has always worked to win! |
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em5m
Pit Crew
Posts: 19
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lf flying
Aug 8, 2014 8:26:31 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by em5m on Aug 8, 2014 8:26:31 GMT -6
Hiking the left rear adds so much cross that it just falls over there! A negative 4 degrees of the left lower should keep the hike down! Take away some left and increase right drive! It pulls up until the rt. rear is loaded! Loading it with drive holds the lt. ft down! This will let roll out work to get you around and straighten up faster getting off! Then little roll out will be needed taking the drag out of the straights of one wheel bigger and locked together and having to roll the same! Keeping the left front preloaded keeps the right rear preloaded and more traction! Less open and steer is needed with roll out actually working correctly! Indexing on the bars or excessive j-bar angles too can cause hike that carries the drive angles to extremes in hiking and this is no longer needed also! Then if all is not lifting, the load against the pull bar or fifth arm is more and traction takes place at a lower height sooner! Less air drag against a flatter angled chassis allows the air to hit the spoiler harder at the rear providing more down force for even more traction! Can you see a change in your near future in this understanding??? Stop the hike and no chain stop needed! More traction if not ridged!!! Any one thing may work to get the wheel down but why stop there??? Regroup and recoup what most just can't see in too easy that has always worked to win! what do you mean left lower negative 4deg? And what will less left do? Because we added left a while back because it seemed to be leaning right in turnes alot!! |
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 8, 2014 17:16:48 GMT -6
Calm the left angles and increase right! The right lift will hold the ft. lt. down! J-bar too!
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em5m
Pit Crew
Posts: 19
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lf flying
Aug 9, 2014 7:22:25 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by em5m on Aug 9, 2014 7:22:25 GMT -6
Calm the left angles and increase right! The right lift will hold the ft. lt. down! J-bar too! we have increased angle in rr upper bar but not rr lower bar because we thought the lower bar just controlled steer?? We can and lower left rear bars still! We have j bar sown to 4" rake. Also we dont have the forward bite out of turns like most others we race with!!!! |
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 9, 2014 11:09:38 GMT -6
If hiking the left it takes away right drive by falling over and killing the right angles! It also holds it over when trying to get off straight with the left pulling forward more than right and making you come off in a bind because of left steer and drive being excessive! Both control each! Indexing too controls steer! Pull bar movement controls steer, caster controls steer, roll out controls steer, off set and air psi in the right rear controls steer along with weight per wheel ft. and rear! Try for almost even when rolled! (same angles when rolled)Right should never be less than left to get it to push the car back over to left drive and stop steering in the process! I run my static steer closed 3/8 but rolls open 1/2-3/4 in the turn and under steers under power getting off straight with only a 4-6 or 6-8 change to control amounts in lean or lift! Its a process of round and round with any change affecting all others to be reset! Never think you well ever get it all where it has to go when switching set-ups! New is where it needs to go and used is how do we get there from here and it stay put when adjusting something else! I never considered a order to follow but there should be! The first thing is setting the air pressure! Been there before and wasted 3 hours re-adjusting!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 9, 2014 12:00:24 GMT -6
I spent 4-6 hours on the scales to find a mis-marked new spring 19 pounds off specs! If it had been in the other direction of positive it would have never even mattered! Location, angle, offset and pressures of tires, springs and valves of shocks is a ball game in its self with out any thing changing! Pounds at the wheel inside and out along with spring compressed heights and roll outs and leverage before and during is just a good guess in movement of the role to different specs that I never check! Chasing butterflies and knowing what color you hunt and the endangered ones not to bother is close to setting a car! Some things you best not change and others may look colorful but a longer net of the right color works best when less movement is obtained! After years of just eye-balling things and staying in the range of motion it is hard to say what is best not looking at the whole picture! I have the same problem with menus but never starved yet! Give it your best shot and ck the range of motion in the index and bar steer. Try to let each do its job best and leave traction to the pull bar or lift arm! Even though the steer or drive bars and j-bar may help if correct in there world, they should not take over traction unless caster allows it to in aiding the front steering by drive load transfer! Complicated but just if you make it so with un-needed motion!
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