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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 14, 2014 12:16:20 GMT -6
Most think only in terms of left rear and track conditions! While both very greatly with having a car constantly hooked it leaves time to improve elsewhere! Would speed be the same in both races? Faster in some cases in the factors of it all, once out front! Coming from the rear you have other cars to judge speeds by and seeing a lap car is always a relief in knowing how fast you are traveling to not over drive the setup! At least this is what drivers say! Some would prefer no other cars on the track and stay out until they spin or blow a engine! It took years or at least one to see it takes both rears to use more horses! When turning and the correct wheel being loaded and preloaded to have traction at all times! To a point of lifting the rear or pulling up both ft. wheels, a gear change and putting extra horses to good use! Then torque of the pulling ranges came in, cam degree and geometry to improve! Then the detune of the new found power was the only option left other than a slight well placed spoiler of restriction! Any and all ways of traction in motion speed or roll has to be addressed more than bar angle and the indexing there of but that comes first with less angle and more leverage from center out to narrow that angle and less movement of controlled traction!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 30, 2014 19:34:33 GMT -6
5 ways to add traction! #1 Have correct spring package! #2 have the correct shocks to let the springs transfer quickly and easily! #3 Let the springs compressed heights stay within their holding range of pounds! #4 A healthy rear percentage of LLR! #5 Don't loose what little you have on the left but gain more on the right by less movement of the left rear! There are many more but no-one wants to hear DE-TUNE to go faster! 60-80 pounds of left rear is fine if it goes to 200 on both rears when on the throttle once rolled!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 2, 2014 11:38:58 GMT -6
Some claim to have plenty of horses with little rear percent and only one wheel in the air! I have seen three wheels in the air to win but wasn't a fan of it! I would think 2 rears pulling away from the pack with a drop in horses by higher gears or timing drop with more gear, would tell us something about traction! If sliding up the track and not being able to re-hook instantly to move the car on command, I would have to rethink what makes traction to start with! Using all you have and foot control is not the answer to standing on it and it moving! So many times less is more in this respect of traction where more is faster in the corners! A lot of pounds can be transferred if done correctly! As a whole, I never go soft on springs as not to loose transfer pounds by the springs just giving more! Of coarse holding up a good rear percent to have transfer takes a stronger springs! A good look at compressed heights might be a good start in traction gained or lost by lack of transfer to the rear from being too soft up ft.! Perk as I call it, lifting the ft. and dropping the rear has given way to driving the nose in the ground with rear hike to increase down force and drag on the chassis to add a few pounds more! The right drive factor alone out weighs most other theories in traction!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 13, 2014 19:34:57 GMT -6
Pounds per square inch of tire surface only goes so far before horses and torque applied gets the best of heat factors! Having two pulling equally helps as long as the pounds are there by equality in transfer and thrust angles! The left side has dead weight on it's side, cross weight, rear percentage in transfer and in some cases the j-bar lift and bar thrust to add even more! So what does your right side have to even out the traction and let roll-out do the job intended? Most never want to add lead to get the job done including me! Transfer is best if you don't loose your left rear in the process! I have moved pull bars, spring locations, changed percentages and springs along with different shock packages for years only to find the loss of better aspects of set-ups to find it easier to just raise the right side bar or bars higher than the left to cure what hooks the right side! Sure you may have to change a bit more to make it work on your car but each will be in a more positive direction of need! If you are only counting on left rear pounds to get the job done, consider two of the same working for you and then add those horses and pounds needed to win by standing on it and staying hooked with less roll-out or steer needed!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 10, 2014 12:41:37 GMT -6
Some believe you are totally hooked if you can tote the left front wheel! Not so in most cases! You may be able to hold it there once rolled in the corner or by a weaker right rear spring but the traction comes from balancing the rear pounds! A lot of rear steer and having it rocked over with a three wheel balance is a bit much to get transferred weight instead of thrust angle doing it for you! If not starting off with too much left rear, a happy easy balance can be had with less movement to get the weight transferred! Traction comes in many forms, I prefer adding to my rt. side rather than moving my left in any direction!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 2, 2014 20:32:59 GMT -6
Usable horses are the best kind! The variation of use as speed and traction allows when on the floor with the throttle can be as simple as too much fuel or variable timing unless willing to up the anti of rear percent to get a better transfer of pounds to add to the rear traction! I have no idea of the horses it took to win so much but being able to use the ones you have comes in handy on the track! I can remember back in the day of calling each tire to the track was a key factor! Having them all with you was a must in winning! Things are much simpler today unless you count on grooving and compounds that soften and buffing to try to get traction because you have so many more horses to hookup! Some even consider less motor as to hooking up! Cam specs and degree can help smear things out a bit or pile it on in one spot! Even controlling the burn by compression is a good factor as to how the horses react to rpms. and torque ranges! Think it over and adjust to your traction needs as to usable at all times!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 15, 2014 8:08:10 GMT -6
The old advantage about there being no substitute for cubic inches must have lost the un-written book on being up on usage of gear ratios and torque! The same for having too much rear percentage, left rear, or stroke verses bore as to fuels and compression! Where there is a will some can find new ways to overcome if trying hard enough, with out cheating that is! Winning while the others cheat just makes it sweeter to the point the track just wants someone else to win for a change! Getting a grip and moving on to other tracks sometimes soothes ruffled feathers a bit! Traction is about being on your game not on how the others play!
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