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Post by jdog1725 on Sept 8, 2014 13:34:34 GMT -6
HOBBY STOCK METRIC CAR 3400 POUNDS. I AM RUNNING LF 1050 RF 900 LR 200 RR 300 WITH 52% CROSS 52 REAR. THE CAR WONT COME OFF THE CONNER AND WILL JUST SPIN TIRES IN CONNER. MY RR TIRE IS GETTING PRETTY HOT WHILE MY LR TIRE IS JUST WORM AFTER FEATURE RACE. HANDLES PRETTY GOOD IN TURN BUT IS A LITTLE BIT TO LOOSE FROM MIDDLE TILL CAR STRAIGHTENS BACK OUT. IT IS ALSO LOOSE ON THROTTEL APP AND TIRES SPIN. WHAT IS A GOOD WAY TO GET MORE FORWARD BIT IN THE CAR WITH SPRINGS, TRAILING ARM ETC. ANY HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED.
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Post by billy5x on Sept 8, 2014 20:50:00 GMT -6
swap rear springs
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 9, 2014 4:59:53 GMT -6
If you haven't read my other post on the subject you should as others now using them are up front and winning! Run a few searches! Regroup on spring and shock packages, lean it left, get some extra left rear lead and caster to help the transfer and traction as well as handling! Message if you need more answers than posted!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 9, 2014 17:43:33 GMT -6
We can only try but its your choice! The last guy spent three weeks changing over but then won 3 of 5 with a second first night out and 3rd from the rear in 5 runs! Old school still works just fine but if just wanting to improve, lessen the roll and up the cross by reverse stagger on the rear! Loose in but tight out with no wait!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 9, 2014 17:58:38 GMT -6
Do you have stock rears or adjustable lowers? Any drilled or looseness anywhere not stock? Has one side been shortened? Does it lean left ft. and rear? The ft. springs should be swapped and rear with only a 25-50 split,225 lt.,200rt. OK- stronger left rear! More rear percent added only to the left rear low and rear as you can! Where is your battery weight? Driver weight? Fuel location? Shocks? We need more info to better assess the application! A split in ft. shocks by 2 points and no split valves used! A 5-5 left ft. and 3-3 right ft. works for us to unload and transfer back to the left rear quickly for traction! rears 4-4s on both! Caster, camber, toe out? I know over all weight is thought to be a big factor but nothing takes the place of a good rear percentage directly applied as lead on the left rear for traction! Move all that can be low and left rear in order not to loose left rear but gain right to match for traction in the transfer!
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Post by jdog1725 on Sept 10, 2014 9:58:21 GMT -6
STOCK REAR TRAILING ARMS. WE HAVE RACED THE CAR FOR ABOUT 5 WEEKS TO FIND OUT THAT WE HAD 3INCH OF LEAD IN THE CAR LEFT REAR FORWARD MORE THEN RIGHT REAR WHEN MESERING OFF FRAM WITH LASER. THE CAR WILL GO STRAGHT BETTER NOW THE WE HAVE GOTTEN LEAD DOWN TO MAYBE HALF INCH. WE ARE RUNNING BILSTEN DRY SLICK SHOCK PACKAGE. BATTERY IS LEFT AND HIGH, FUEL TANK IS CENTER AND HIGH. I KNOW THE FRONT GEOMETRYS ARE NOT RIGHT BUT NOT SURE OF WHAT TO SET THEM TO. ANOTHER THING THAT IS NOT CLEAR TO ME IS WHAT IS GOOD TRAILING ARM ANGLES AND RIDE HIGHTS?
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 10, 2014 13:51:25 GMT -6
Stock won for us no problems! Stock tie rods should run up or level to the wheel lt. side and down to the wheel rt side 1/4-1/2 Don't know angles, but bolt to bolt--- Left lower 1/4 higher ft. than rear with driver! Left 3/4-1.25 rt side higher ft. than rear! Measuring at side frame rails ft. one inch to 1.25 higher rt. and rear 1/2-3/4 higher right side! It leans left ft more than rear! Need numbers on the shocks! Move the upper ball joints to the rear a lot with longer bolts and 1 inch plus washers for shims! Angle grind the nut a bit for fit! Keep both wheels leaning left at the top! Left a little and right 2X more (- 1-2 lt. and + 3-4 right)camber! Caster 6-10 or 12 if you can! This will twist the frame when turning and give pound changes to give both ft. and rear steer as well as pounds at the drive wheels to turn where you point it! No lead needed in rear steer as it will stay loose off! Add lead weight to left rear corner only low! We us 150 pounds as far rear and low as possible to hold left rear and let the car move elsewhere for better handling and traction! 53-54 left and cross with 60 rear, 60-80 left rear! The transfer adds up and hooks the car! roll out up ft but not much is needed rear once working correctly --1/2-1.25! Get all weight low, rear, left to make it stay hooked no mater what and most drivable! It still wins! The weaker left ft should have aleast 50 -75 pounds more weight than right with out driver! With driver 100-200 more pounds left ft than right! This sets preloads to help nose and roll as well as transfer better to stay hooked! You will love it once there correctly! We run 2" offsets all the way around! Adjust left front to loosen by less lean! To check rear, use a framing square standing up against the axle and measure to the lower ball-joints while car is on the floor!
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