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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 12, 2014 10:41:06 GMT -6
Most of us gets the message when oil drips or steam comes out and some try to hear things ahead of time in engines but what is your chassis saying so bluntly??? If you need this to correct that and a pound here and lead there to please it only some-what right now! I wish I had all the setups and answers but I don't! The best we can do is just listen to the tale tail signs of all it is asking for and by doing so adjust all to the good, not one at a time but all back to scratch to figure out why this and that way only for the good of all as you go! Start by lifting the throttle to nose, then how to plant the right side rear sense the rt. ft. has already been planted to hold you when ever you do turn left both will hold! The drag of holding left rear is most important in pulling the car left when lifting as well as traction! A bit of steer ft. and rear with the drag and rollout working requires no extra open roll to turn! You know it is going to happen any how so we use it to aid the turn but it has to recover to get off straight! Thus the right thrust to correct back to level and the lead weight to hold and transfer quickly as not to loose traction to both rears to push you around by use of rollout and right drive! Trying to turn left with left rear unless so loose you are past sideways with over steer and needing to correct by under drive is just wrong in steer and the drive wheel to do so! Try removing one rear tire and see which is best to send you left under power as you roll off the left and loose traction! More left only robs the right and lifting higher to let it fall over to get more right might have to happen on 3 wheels but I for one beg to differ as you well know by now! Not that we haven't ever ran that way and won too but to pass those guys, you might need an edge of all 4 wheels working for the good and more traction of a few well placed pounds to the track ft. and rear at those speeds! Give it some thought and listen to your chassis go AHHHHH!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 14, 2014 9:28:27 GMT -6
Does your plugs have speech in pops or sign language in color or just quietly wet their threads! Racing fuels can leave a silence that only a finger up the pipe can tell in any color at all! The oil on the threads is my best guess at tuning each cylinder instead of the whole with a hole! Both only give clues to matching ign. timing to burn timing! Adding both can provide more horses to most engines! Beware of too much fuel or octane going lean at the plugs by burning in the pipes (GLOWING or FLAMES) instead of in the cylinders! In the correction, if wrong or right it can boost ten horses with more bang and increases in timing the burn with more fuel! keeping 3 wet threads on all works best for me running no power valve and bigger jets with more timing and HEI power than most to win!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 15, 2014 16:08:48 GMT -6
Can you feel the rock and roll or drop back on your chassis when just packing the track with it leaned the opposite way? Is it more or less under caution with the race angle correct? Is it quick to respond to more angle in the turns or in the straights! Can you even feel the difference in traction unless turning into it one way or the other? What is the lean of your chassis telling you by changing preloads on your car by where the loads and angles are by leaning more or less just by track angle changes? A helpful bit of truth never hurts to be taken for an advantage!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 18, 2014 8:46:16 GMT -6
Would the fact of having different valves in your shocks give you some idea of the load and balance of your chassis' reactions??? The smoothness and balance should come and go naturally without shocks first in your mind before committing to any factors to aid the variations needed of control but more about timing them correctly after the fact of weight shift to spring factors are applied! Would you even consider making a lap with no shocks? A well balanced chassis would have a better chance in that race for sure with little movement to even need shocks! Most crutches are adjustable these days but I hope having the fit and travel you need doesn't compromise your needs in motion or recovery of the instant transfer of pounds at the springs!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 19, 2014 12:18:26 GMT -6
Where does your car do the most passing at? This will give you clues to your needs in chassis development! If most are running the same style of set-up it will be hard to pass unless mistakes are made! This is where drivability of the chassis comes in as to not reacting the same as the rest but however you please! While passing ten cars in one lap or five in a turn, driver skills and horses usually gets the credit! It all has to work together as a team to pass one car at a time or work where ever you point it with your foot on the floor! My post are the best advice of how to get it done the old school way by use of logic! You can't win by following the leader unless you consider any top five as a good finish these days!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 19, 2014 17:50:45 GMT -6
If a set of easy-up shocks helps to transfer weight to the rear but you have to loose steer quality in the process of being hooked, what is your car telling you? Did you loose rear bar angle with the rear drop or is it a matter of having it open more? Would more roll out even help? Is it the fact that you lost front traction to steer or you just didn't have a good balance with your old shocks to match the springs? Having your car level when in steer mode may ease the transfer with out the run around that shocks can give to a good working transfer to start with! Trying this or that is the big thing now days instead of taking the time to reason things out before your choices are made! Response and transfer are two very different things and should be considered as such in pounds rather than inches! Preloads are the deciding factors of need to make it happen with the correct shocks by pounds of thrust in the transfer! Getting ahead or behind of its speed just moves it elsewhere! What are your shocks telling you your car needs???
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 2, 2014 20:52:09 GMT -6
If you can spin the tires after three hard laps listen closely as this speaks loudly of need of attention! Most try to put all their eggs in one basket knowing good and well they will lose a few in the turn! It takes both wheels with ample weight to hold traction at its best! A amplified transfer rate is the best way I have found to be able to concentrate on being faster in other ways! I've had plenty of time to work on more issues of more importance to aid the winning process!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 6, 2014 15:20:22 GMT -6
I see a lot of spring changes at the track to get control of what is or isn't happening! Stiffer on the right may not give down as much but it changes preloads and roll factors and can move the movement to rolling up on the left with more or less nose or pounds to lift for left rear to get traction! This too can change bar angles when rolled and change the whole rear steer and thrust drive process! Adjusting some times is more about preloads than pound changes as springs fight it out for position in the balance! I choose springs for a reason on all 4s! Shocks the same! Each for a single purpose with some idea of how each effects the other for control of movement and range of travel by compresses heights! A lesser amount of controlled movement in the chassis gives your choices a better chance of doing its job correctly! Once all are preloaded and holding a said balance the transfer of pounds becomes easier than having to move so far to get pounds elsewhere! The movement of each corner can give clues to the need of a poundage or spring change but you have to consider more than just travel with a reasonable conclusion of all else! Changing variations in 2s,4s,8s and 16s with weight placement in mind can change the roll locations as well as re-setting preloads! Most can balance any shaped object on one finger and this is how easy the process begins! Nothing is really balanced but more held into account for its actions by percentages being loaded or unloaded for travel when needed! Divide each thing to a class of its own as if not related to start with! Factor in the rest as you go along with the travel and leverage! Poker chips divided into 4 stacks and rearranged one factor at a time may help as to values and amounts as they spread out before you in your set up working as seen in pounds!
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