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Post by snake on Dec 9, 2014 9:09:01 GMT -6
Whats everyone expierce with the (x factor) flex control arm bushings. Are they worth having over the stock moog bushings? Pros and cons.....
Thanks.....
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 9, 2014 10:31:27 GMT -6
If needed to make other set-ups with issues better--yes! Most are still trying hard to get more steer or traction and these do help if used only where needed otherwise in and out can upset a otherwise smooth delivery! A pan-hard bar might help! Any alignment bind needs improving somehow! New stock lets the rubber give some and I never drilled or loosened bolts to free the chassis as I like less movement in a controlled manner! I have seen some cars so loosened they would go sideways when lifting from the upset of stability but alignment is always a good thing when controlled!!!
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Post by mooresracing on May 25, 2015 10:07:09 GMT -6
Trial and error. I've never ran these bushings but I have ran moni-ball bushing in the back trailing arms on my metric car & hated it. The rear end always felt loose and shifted when getting on and off the gas. Mean less to say two weeks of running the bushing they came back out of my car and stock replacements went back in and fix my issue. Maybe theyre something you have to change set up wise then what i was doing when I ran them. Just know im not going to run them again.
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Post by javelintn on Aug 24, 2017 16:16:42 GMT -6
Hello everybody...just joined and making the transition from asphalt to dirt. I have been a chassis builder for years...ASPHALT!! I moved to a different region of the world and got bit by that nasty little creature "The Dirt Beatle". With that said I have a buddy that has asked me to build him what I would call a street stock but the track calls is 602 class. Metric Frame, 602 Crate, Stock style front lowers, aftermarket uppers, stock style spindle must be same mfg as car...so GM. 9" if you so pick, jack bolts all corners.....now here is where I think it's won or lost. please correct me if I am wrong. Must be stock style system as it was when stock....no mono ball bushings, no nylon, no steel sleeve. However aftermarket uppers and lowers are acceptable but non adjustable...whats your thoughts or experience using the offsets to increase angles to help with rear steer. Getting rear steer with that setup is tuffer than all. I am also considering making several sets in various lengths for track conditions. They can be up to 1/2" longer or shorter than stock dims. So we got a full inch to play with here as long and we do not go over or under the 108" wheelbase more than a 1/2". I guess my question is this....if I set the car up with the LR tucked up a little bit sitting at ride height...so lets say I lead the LR 1/2".....are you guys doin this at all? If so I can see it scrubbing speed off on dirt as much as asphalt..anyone? I notice most local tracks in this region are either 3/8 or 4/10 ish in size. I also notice the faster cars are in an almost constant turn to begin with...and last question....are the impala spindles worth the effort? I can change to larger ball joints and do a ton with my front roll centers...do I want to even bother moving away from the metric spindle? Maybe the impala's are stronger? Heavier? I like as low of spindle weight as I can get...ball joints can do a bunch..but I am curious. Thanks Guys in advance!!
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Post by javelintn on Aug 24, 2017 16:18:32 GMT -6
Need to clear up something.....when I mentioned stock type setup I was referring to the rear suspension...which I think you will finally figure...sorry guys
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Post by moldy on Aug 27, 2017 13:32:27 GMT -6
What year Impala spindle..? If the mid 70's is used with the metric chassis mount the upper control arm will have to be shorter. Works well, shorter right, longer left. Body roll can make the camber change. Static camber vs dynamic camber. Try to get 3* camber gain in 3 inches. My opinion now. Drivers feel how much camber you want out on the left. Rear steer: New bushings Left to old bushings right.. Right...?
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