Setting the J-BAR ---- to free the set-up

Most find it difficult to find a consistency in j-bar settings from car to car or track to track as it does offer a lot of potential fixes to other stimuli! The free spot offers little unless the rest of the chassis is doing its part! Stimuli affects other factors too that changes their needs as to adjustments as well and the j-bar is blamed or has gotten the short straw as to being elected and not sanctioned into place! The sweet spot has to do with being free as to chassis roll by the roll center of the car! Every chassis and group setting is a bit different as to needs as with going into the corner differently to react the same! Its just not going to react the same unless free to do so! If it is tight just coasting into the turn at high speeds the amount of back drag from engine idle and gear according to the momentum weight of the car should be looked at first! If suitable then lower it a bit at the chassis! Most find the lower level at the pinion to be close for starters with most roll centers! The length and angle of the bar also has to be addressed as to needs by application reasoning! Example--- are you using it for a traction device, a means of hiking the left side to get more angle, steer when in the throttle by making bar angles changes, or just to hold the rear-end under the car correctly at its free location to allow more drivability and to be able to find the other problems that haunt you track to track! I have always preferred longer bars in all locations as to their consistency in drivability! The reaction and quickened angle change makes it hard to stay on top of every thing a track and other drivers can throw at you! The quick transitions in lifting or steer during throttle can slow you down if in traffic and when else would you need a better, smoother means of chassis reaction! Most hate to be passed high or low as they have little choice but to stand on it and face the reactions of the extreme j-bar angle that steers them out side even more by its use under power! Just changing a shock at the left rear position to cover its wrong doing starts the other corners thinking of changes needed to go with the flow! Before long the saga begins with air pressures, off-sets, springs, and even talk of how he just can't drive comes along! Some people love it and think its God's gift to mankind if lucky enough to realize its limits! A new chassis sometimes has altered opinions by some! If just starting out with one, keep it as calmed down as you can and weed out the other factors as to it being tight off the throttle and loose on the throttle! Most of the time its the added steer at the right rear and lift that causes it to loose spring tension on both rears that causes the need for trying to get more left rear! I do swap my rear springs if running one and leave all else the same! This adds load to the bars with less help from the spring giving more left rear with out the hike or angle change to do so! The adj.  height is as little as 3-5-7 inches depending on driver and left side weight as well as the added pounds LL&R to keep it from lifting that LR corner and loosing left or right traction or adding more steer in the process of change when roll-steer has it under control!!! It also allows a free ft. ft. to nose at will to control the planting of the right rear before turning and just by lifting the throttle to add to the roll if any is need to get more transfer! Having the right bars higher gives more right rear thrust to match the amount of left rear by weight and let roll out do the steering instead of the j-bar adding too little or way to much too quickly!