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Post by randy94 on Jun 3, 2015 11:45:13 GMT -6
Need help, i have a dirtworks open wheel chassis and this is my first experience with a dirt car always been an asphalt guy. I got the 4 link set up but from my understanding the birdcage has to be indexed at 12 and 6 or parallel to the ground. I have my bars at 16 and 14". my problem is if i index to the 12 and 6 o'clock position the upper link becomes shorter than the bottom by about an inch. I know this isn't correct, why would this be happening. NEED HELP
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rickd39
Fourth Place
www.duricaracing.com
Posts: 54 
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Post by rickd39 on Jun 8, 2015 9:49:25 GMT -6
Your bars mounts are going to determine your bar lengths. First you have to set your wheel base, second index your bird cage to straight up and down. a lot of the dirt works cars I have seen run a plug in the lower bar mount to make the lower bar shorter then the upper  ![]() |
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Post by randy94 on Jun 9, 2015 11:35:31 GMT -6
I will have to try the plug because once i set the wheel base the top bar length is defiantly shorter than the bottom. Thanks for your help
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Post by mod10c on Jul 17, 2015 14:20:40 GMT -6
Make sure the top mounts have the radius going the right way. A friend had hs backwards from Dirtworks, he had to cut them out and weld in new ones in. He runs in the top 8 in the feature now.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 18, 2015 7:23:42 GMT -6
I index as to be where you want it to be in the direction of rotation to minimize extremes in steer!-- I love a Z-link for its quick and easy adjustment fetchers!!! This gives you the ideal counter move to be more stable in the ruff corners!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 18, 2015 7:29:33 GMT -6
The variation of holes from center can change the speed of its moving ratio as well as the length of the rods angle and change!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 18, 2015 10:27:56 GMT -6
When getting up on the bars as they say, it can move things greatly and getting enough negative lower left bar angle to counter this causes need of the plug! I try to let the right side do the steer and not loose my left rear pounds to need more put back! Using transfer to the rear and adding pounds to both rears while not having to add cross weight or loosing right rear in the hike process! If it lifts 2 inches on both sides down the straights you know it working! Moving any higher is changing all my setting out of preloaded ranges of operation! Running mostly off of left rear and trying to get right drive in the corners takes a lot of change in crosses switching or roll over and then only static weight and side trust if the left ft. is in the air instead of being preloaded and gaining more right side bite!!! To each his on -- I tried them all and still do on those belonging to others!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 18, 2015 10:43:39 GMT -6
If you can split the difference in pivot as to the lean and travel it helps calm things a bit! A given range at the angle to the bars-- just 6&12 to Earth is not the thing but to the bars angle in motion of travel! You can get more steer or less with drive in place or if down off the bars! shorter bars and angles amplifies changes greatly and if not hitting your mark or timing the corner correctly each time it can get tricky fast! However depending on bars -chassis etc.. -- you may wind up at 6&12 to earth!!!
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Post by racer96m on Jul 19, 2015 6:54:26 GMT -6
Your 16 - 14 lengths are just generic, to get started, your actual setup lengths will be different depending on your indexing side to side. Square rear in chassis first, then set ride heights as that will change indexing, with ride height set, adjust the J bar to proper length because every time you make any adjustment that effects ride height the J bar measurement changes, now last thing you will set is your index. I like to use a small square magnetic digital level, I just stick it to bottom of cage and then adjust upper and lower bars to get the index, dont sweat your bar lengths after that because everything should be square and setup correctly. Hope that helps.
Dave
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