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UMP HP
Dec 18, 2015 20:29:12 GMT -6
Post by reddog51 on Dec 18, 2015 20:29:12 GMT -6
I want to go back the UMP mods but tell me what kind of motor i need. Doesn't seem like a *23 head motor will get the job done.
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UMP HP
Feb 8, 2016 22:04:51 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by dirtmod22 on Feb 8, 2016 22:04:51 GMT -6
On a heavy , tacky track it is easy to use 700hp and 600lbs or torque. And 700 is capable w 23* stuff.
As the nights progress .... It's easier to use the less horse. In my 5 yrs expirence.
I have been struggling w my setup , stick car driver in a mod.... But I have Been enlightened w some new knowledge lately. Hoping to make the best of it.
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UMP HP
Feb 10, 2016 14:59:29 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 10, 2016 14:59:29 GMT -6
You can always gain or loose hp if needed with fuel and timing control! I have been doing just that for years to win! Its all posted already somewhere here! Most buy it off the shelf and set things as told!
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hd
Pit Crew
Posts: 6 
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UMP HP
Feb 11, 2016 11:14:19 GMT -6
Post by hd on Feb 11, 2016 11:14:19 GMT -6
It depends on the track you are running. It depends on the dyno, they will vary 100 hp or more. My car won the UMP Nationals in 05, and the 4 Crown Nationals in 08 at Eldora, with a 589hp 402 ford engine. Some places a 604 crate will get it done in the right conditions. Look at East Bays 5000 to win show a couple weeks ago. I fell into the trap of buying a 710 HP engine. It was good when I needed it, but I had to put a restrictor plate on it and kill 120hp to make it good on most racetracks. A 700 hp motor will slow you down most places, and there are more of those places than places that need 700hp. I always liked something in the 500 hp rear wheel hp range. Very seldom do I ever get them wide open, unless it has rained a lot. I drove a 13 degree 415 last week testing, and it was good as long as it was hooked up, but when you hit a patch or roughness that unhooked it, I had my hands full. It sure didn't take long to get down the straightaway though.
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