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Post by lightning on Jan 23, 2016 8:00:36 GMT -6
I have to change over to the stock metric center link.(IMCA)Looking for starting upper A arm lengths and angle. (nova lowers)Current 11" left and 10" right. Steering is real slow.
Bump steer spacers.
What steering box are people using I have a 2-1 quickner.
Thanks in advance
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 26, 2016 8:28:34 GMT -6
As for the need of such other than stock, I would consider the lean or added hike of left rear as the cause! It all gets way out there in no mans land fast! The set up demands have their on agenda as to steer! I have watched cars round the turn and not have to steer the front wheels at all it would seem! A good set up changes pounds at the wheels and leaves the chassis stable and leaned in acordance to the tracks banking in a unrolled position at best! Once you shift the load of weight and move everthing but pounds as needed at the wheels you have over ran the capassity of control! Thus the need to regain by extreme measures ft. and rear! Wish I had all the answers for you but never hiked a left rear or nosed harder than a stock set up travel could handle! If hard to make it turn, set-up is most always at fault! The pounds can be changed by the driver threw the frame twist and pounds moved by the correct sspring package to give you control with four wheel steering at the steering wheel with out the wait of the roll or transfer to make it happen! Most set ups let the track control the chassis insted of the driver! I have a lot of post in every class on getting this done as they all are turning left and exspecting it to happen reguardless of speed or track! Just be sure it is toed out and stays that way while turning in both directions!!!
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Post by lightning on Jan 27, 2016 20:23:02 GMT -6
Well said? LOL... I'll just go back and stay with the same and change the center link and reset bump after caster.
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rickd39
Fourth Place
www.duricaracing.com
Posts: 54
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Post by rickd39 on Feb 8, 2016 16:43:39 GMT -6
Lightning, Your change of center link should not affect your upper control arms. It will affect the length of your tie-rods and bump steer spacers
What is your version of "slow" steering, how "fast" do you want to be? with stock idler and pitman arms, My car with a 2-1 quickner is a 1 turn lock to lock
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Post by lightning on Feb 14, 2016 8:20:52 GMT -6
Are you using a 16-1 box or 12-1 with the 2-1? I'm thinking mines like two turns lock to lock.
Slow as in hard to catch the car when it steps out to go. Like in your profile picture. If I did that, it would loop in a heart beat. The front wheels would only be turned half of what yours are.
Thanks for the reply.
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hd
Pit Crew
Posts: 6
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Post by hd on Feb 14, 2016 16:26:50 GMT -6
What spindles are you using? That has a big effect on the steering quickness, and ackerman ( toe out when steering), as well as bump steer spacer length. I feel that 1 1/2 turns lock to lock is where most drivers are most comfortable, and don't wiggle the car on the straightaway. A 12 to 1 with a 2 to 1 quickener is good with metric spindles. I would use a 16 to 1 with the pinto spindles. Make sure to use the metric idler and pitman arms. The bumpsteer spacer length depends on how deep the lower balljoints are reamed, the length of the balljoints, as well as the upper a arm lengths and angles. The amount of caster you run also effects the bump spacer length.If using pinto spindles, you will probably need to make a steering stop to keep the RF wheel from hitting the frame and locking up when counter steered. They turn farther, because of the shorter steering arm length.
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Post by lightning on Feb 15, 2016 22:00:09 GMT -6
Everything is metric besides the nova lowers and Camaro center link. Changing to small metric center link. Been to 1 1/2" extended to stock on both the upper and lower ball joints. Upper arm angles from 10 - 20 degrees. Bump steer is reset to near zero after changes. Any suggetions on where to start with ball joints? I'm going thru the front end and replacing everything. I would like for the right front to stick and rotate. Thinking of changing the front roll center left and low with a very level right upper control arm angle.
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hd
Pit Crew
Posts: 6
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Post by hd on Feb 16, 2016 8:56:38 GMT -6
Make sure that you keep enough RF camber gain. A flat upper probably wont do it. What tires are you on? The softer the sidewall, the more camber you need because of sidewall flex. Don't get all tied up in roll center stuff. They do that to sell software. It does matter, but not as much as camber curves, bump steer, and ackerman.Make the balljoint lip where it touches the lower a arm, level with the inner bolt in the crossmember to determine ride height. Use the k6117 ball joint, or same pin length.
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Post by lightning on Feb 16, 2016 21:09:38 GMT -6
IMCA/Hoosier G60-15 The lip your talking about is where the lower ball joint cup touches lower A arm correct. That way there's a slight drop from the center point of the ball joint to the lower A arm center bolt correct. I appreciate all the help to get me gong in the right direction.
I'll be changing to a 12-1 box. Then i'll level the box and center the pitman arm. This will be for a good base line or starting point before assembling and future checks.
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