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Post by teamg00 on Feb 14, 2013 10:25:26 GMT -6
Im building a 77 Nova for a 3/8 high bank clay and I could use some base line help. The rules say stock replacement springs. It has to weigh 3600# after the race.
Weights for springs? LF RF LR RR Caster/camber? LF RF Scale weights? LF RF LR RR cross bite Toe out?
Thank you
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Post by leaf4life on Feb 14, 2013 20:58:41 GMT -6
LF 1000/RF1200-LR225/RR200 (I use landrum leaf) Caster RF4/LF2 (always a split of 2) Camber LF +1.5 RF -3.5-4 (based on tire wear and preference) Toe out 3/8 to 1/2 (again preferance,more seems to react slower, better for long corners) Scale weights depend on a lot of things, I like to set my cross at about 53%. I can only do so by offsets for I can't use jacks of any kind, I like running 3off across the rear. Hope this helps
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Post by teamg00 on Feb 19, 2013 11:47:46 GMT -6
The rear springs are really lighter on the right side? I can run offsets and lead. I talked to a guy about taking some of the antidive out of the RF by driving a hole alittle lower on the front upper bolt.
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Post by leaf4life on Feb 19, 2013 19:31:12 GMT -6
On dirt we generally put the softer spring on the right rear, years ago my father ran asphalt for a few years and always ran softer on left rear, and we have tried it on dirt when we first ventured into dirt and it didn't work for us too well. What we have learned of leaf cars is that they work best driving off the left rear. So using an tie down shock on the LR and a easy up on RF will help that but too much can create a push.Camaros/novas are much closer to being race cars than the full frame metrics etc. in the front ends, I'm not allowed to move anything around on the front end, so I have never really looked into anti dive. Can't really help you there
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Post by thomas on Feb 13, 2016 17:09:45 GMT -6
Just seeing if I could get some help I run a 78 nova on a 3/8 mile track when I go in to the turn it pusher hard can any one help me
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 14, 2016 4:28:05 GMT -6
I have lots of post out there already on most everything! We ran novas for years and used a 300 pound split up ft. because of the weight difference in the frames! My theories apply to all cars in weight related matters of transfer! Shocks not alowing the car to react can drive you nuts! They too are part of the transfer the same as weight or springs, consider them as timing also but if it holds, it too adds or restricts pounds!!! Having tons of roll-out or a rear open is a cruch as to a lack of pound placement and drive! Winning with a closed rear and even reversed stager should give you a clue to the important of pounds on the correct drive wheel! The back drag of torque when lifting going in is one thing but the push of drive once there is another! The transfer of pounds inbetween is our quest as well!!! Little movement in the chassis is needed if weight transfer takes place! Just letting it happen with shocks and springs is sometimes better than trying to make it happen!
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Post by thomas on Feb 14, 2016 15:47:50 GMT -6
What is a good setup to go with all the springs are old and need to get new and what kind of shocks to get. Car is 3200lbs
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 14, 2016 16:11:25 GMT -6
1000-1200 ft and 225 250 rear would be close for the weight and 5-5 lt ft and 3-3 rt ft with 4-4s on both rears! Shocks need not be expensive if geting it done by varriations! Adjustable ones give varriations with just a click! Have had new ones that were not what they said and about drove us nuts with out our on tester! Have your springs checked if you can!
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Post by thomas on Feb 14, 2016 16:53:17 GMT -6
Ok thank you very much with the help I am the only one where I race that has a nova everyone tells me to get rid of it I just want to prove that it can win races
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Post by wrenchead84 on Nov 1, 2016 12:32:45 GMT -6
1000-1200 ft and 225 250 rear would be close for the weight and 5-5 lt ft and 3-3 rt ft with 4-4s on both rears! Shocks need not be expensive if geting it done by varriations! Adjustable ones give varriations with just a click! Have had new ones that were not what they said and about drove us nuts with out our on tester! Have your springs checked if you can! this seems heavy for a 3200# car. and no easy ups or tie downs?? is this for a longer track, shorter?? flat/banked?? my application is 1/3 mile high banked clay
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Post by wrenchead84 on Nov 1, 2016 13:51:10 GMT -6
also, what the preferred caster for this setup to work?
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 19, 2016 14:28:22 GMT -6
A lot is the trick! 6-10,10-12 if you can as it twist the frame and moves the pounds along with rear steer on some otherchassis with bars! This caster alone is of no good use if the springs just give it away! By the same theory goes along with ft to rear varriations of loss of transfer in pounds! Even down to the tire psi eating away with give instead of transfer!!! This gives more driver controled handling instead of track conditions or roll doing its lacking best!!! In reverse, tire psi,offset of leverage against the spring to frame twist or roll is back to the driver with caster in his hands!!! It will allow you to become looser and tighter with the turning of the steering wheel getting rid of tight in and lose off problems! So tighten it up and hammer down as extreme caster gives more driver control!!!
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