|
Post by jimmyb3 on Aug 13, 2013 12:04:15 GMT -6
What rear springs are you running? I race at Harlan Ia. Denison also the last 2 weeks. Have raced at I-80. # 3j sportmod.
|
|
|
Post by clbaker25x on Aug 13, 2013 12:30:26 GMT -6
Rear springs are 125 left rear and 200 right rear in the video I posted.
|
|
|
Post by clbaker25x on Aug 13, 2013 12:31:39 GMT -6
What gear do you run at I-80? Is this with a crate or claim motor? We run a claim engine. I would like to get up to I-80 for the end of year specials.
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 5, 2014 15:31:29 GMT -6
Showed up mid season after going from mods to limited, A stock parts car with my set up and junk .066 350 legal motor just to get going and won 13 of 15 and was 2 seconds faster per lap than 125 cars at a out of town big race for our class! People hated us as we had to be cheating but as the next few years proved in tech we did not have too. Although a 3/4" working range and only a half inch of rear stagger would win 60 races in three years! We did persist in staying old school! No alterations needed to chassis per tracks! A extra bit of horses by laws of physics did help! !/3 of a second faster than 57 modified cars that begged to race their class after being rained out at theirs the day before in another state! Passing on the high side on with 4 wheels planted with spring tension in the turn could be harder but it seemed easy enough for a very long time! We have run right and left rear but in the turn traction was the same as it all changed when rolled over in the transfer! Sweet spots are easier to find with upper ball-joints more to the rear, old school and no spoiler needed as is some classes now coming back around as 3 links are! As to the problem at hand, weight transition and shock timing, even caster could have solved this to start with without jacking with settings and springs if cornering good and straight coming off! A low right rear tire pressure can do this as it changes the bite point, off-set and creates extra roll losing right side bite when lifted can rob right rear also at times! Transitions are hard to keep equal traction This is why tricycle works but you have to go big and quickly to make it work going in and then it should lock to be able to steer with little caster to upset the lock! Rough tracks are hard on cars and drivers! Old school can allow snaking threw traffic with no traction loss as well if done correctly with a understanding of preloaded springs as compressed heights and percentages are related to total weight and transfer by percentages and timing by use of shocks! These things come into play on every kind of set-up and I hope to help all in understanding how any of them work for yourselves!
|
|
|
Post by jjack010 on Apr 16, 2014 9:59:13 GMT -6
Nice race Baker!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 19, 2014 16:51:47 GMT -6
We have ran uppers headed up hill with the lowers and front end raised to match on limited cars with them looking like a 4wheel drive to win but they were still leaned left to hook left more than right and even out when rolled! Lifting weight off of the springs or adding pounds by compressing them can go either way depending on spring poundage and there compressed heights! If a spring is soft it will compress and can not transfer much until coil-bind! If lifting doesn't transfer weight to the gain at the rear wheels by lifting the front of the car or lowering the rear it is in need of a up or down and lean change as well as springs that help that happen front and rear by them matching the weight per axle with a usable variation! A front rise and a rear squat transfers better than nosing and hiking in my world! Still a 3 inch shock movement on the rt. ft. with 2 every where else with minimal roll, steer and roll out on any surface to win! Increased corner speeds may have you out of your cams pulling range if peaking, Up the fuel to keep it pulling! Check your timing to fuel burn my reading your plugs! Load your wagon! Most of our races were won turning only 6400 but it sounded like 8400! Leaning at peak horses gives a extra boost and requires extra attention with out a power valve to draw more in before and after when out of the throttle to cool pistons down quickly!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 26, 2014 20:25:51 GMT -6
Looking at the numbers of viewers interested in forward drive, more should be ask or said! Any improvements can be faster in one spot but unload the wagon so to speak to slow the speed elsewhere! Gear or fuel can be compromised in the speeding up of turns in handling with more forward drive! Ridding the carb of a power valve and re-jetting to suit the needs of ( now ) is always faster when correct with timing control in rpms! When toping out in the load pulling range of the cam a simple valve adjustment can work wonders! Re-degree-ing a cam or a change to fit your new found speed is sometimes like chasing your tail! Do all else first because it will need doing again anyhow with any change of power or speed in the forward drive process! Load and pulling ranges need to be kept in mind as more power in torque needs a gear change to pick up speed faster under load while holding a tighter pulling range of peak power! We won races turning 8700 but won more at 6400 with the same engine and cam with tune in gear, carb, timing and valve geometry! Torque curves are key to power with gear to match! 25- 30 points of gear can make a huge difference after retuning!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 25, 2014 20:46:41 GMT -6
Are you trying to hook the left rear more than the right? That should help it turn right! Roll out must not be working these days! I might be old but I still start off with my right foot to turn left every time if moving forward! Dragging my left leg still requires the right being ahead! I don't think much has changed but more are trying harder by changing more! I just try to let things even out on their on! Not much help is needed once balanced and free to move! Mother Nature will always have her say, so why not just listen to what you know is going to be said! She needs no help lifting the left, just in making things right! Or at least equal as long as she is around!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 6, 2014 6:17:03 GMT -6
The left side has the advantages of traction by design but the right side is what turns you left with roll out working and a little more thrust angle than the left! This helps the right to pull down when lifting the throttle and push it back over too when getting off the turn! Gaining right rear traction is easy! Its the left holding what you put there that is hard! A j-bar to the left can do many things! It can loosen the pounds left, hook the left, tighten entry or loosen exit by changing ride heights, pounds at the wheels while adding steer and thrust angles! But aren't these the things you wish to control by adjustments setting still with no thrust or roll factors applied! Getting your left rear to sit still is the big problem! It causes the control of steer and traction to be compromised by a lack of not enough right drive to help you go threw life making your on choices! Its not that left is bad but when it takes away right's abilities to help and causes havoc in the ranks of who is pulling who, it's time to calm it down a notch or too! You can always up your right game before rolling over to have it by it being forced upon you by mother nature!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 6, 2014 9:11:01 GMT -6
If you lift the left rear, is it to gain weight at the tire, add more steer, lean it harder to get more right drive by pounds in transfer, more air down and side force holding, or rid the right side of the G-forces applied or get more traction on that side with out tipping over by nosing it harder? Does 50 pounds weigh more holding it out with leverage applied or holding it straight up! Does it transfer better in front seat or behind on the rear bumper? Doesn't things seem to be lighter closer and once in motion? Good old common sense can solve most traction problems if you pay attention in your set-up instead of trying to adjust to the norm of many!!! Try being right yourself on your car for the next change you make!!! Ask all you need, you still call the shots at winning!
|
|
|
Post by chris74az on Sept 8, 2014 10:07:12 GMT -6
am i the only one who needs a rocket science degree to understand what hes saying?? lol
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 8, 2014 17:29:16 GMT -6
Wish I had one to give you but after 20 post another grandpa guy in Canada took a second place first time out with all new stats! Did you ever play with a stick and hoop? It wasn't a rocket that got me thinking! Help me get it said so as everyone will be happy and up front! I do try hard but need some input as to needs of not knowing! I am willing to get it more simple, with help it should happen! Just handing out stats is not training in how-to! Understanding it one sentence at a time may help, that is if I knew how!!! Try a yes or no along the way, or even a what the hell to me in posting or a message to clear a point for you and then you can try to explain to others! Glad to have the help!!!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 28, 2014 20:45:27 GMT -6
One guy reported back, that his car hooked better and had only one pound of left rear! The transfer was good in adding more I am sure! Its not all about left rear or angles but a total of all giving more to both sides without jacking up and changing drivability!
|
|