front / rear brake bias

Floated brakes or not? Bird cages may be under steering when breaking! Check lead at static as to being closed or open when lifted to see which way its headed when up or down or rolled over!

Lr brake floated, the car was awsome the last race untill lf got ran over and broke upper arm and shock. Replaced parts and aligned but put a 5 shock on instead of 6 like it had. Car was not anything like before the lf got hit the race before?? Also had to run a 3 off on lr instead of 4 off like race before because it was slightly bent from same accident. But also you guys please comment about my brakes temps question in original post because i dont know if someone turned my brake adjuster since last race. Thanks

When you have an adjustable brake it does happen! Any change in set-ups usually warrants 20 more to adapt to or deal with to make the one work! Brake adjustments should be noted in rounds ft. to rear each race to driver needs! We always center and go one rear if slick or one front if tacky to start with as track conditions need different braking as well as set-up changes! A marking direction of turning ft. left hand or rear right hand is written on the dash as location of adjuster per car ( Right hand or left of driver ) and lines at cylinders and cylinders differ per car mounting! Adjusting during the race as conditions change does help and is up to the driver to find the sweet spot! The usage of breaking on a tight set-up change may have caused more heat by extra usage! Where was the car hit? Left ft. controls the most on my type set-up while rt. ft. on most others is the key factor point! Upper arms comes in many fashions and lengths! Adjustable ones when working requires a spare per side pre-adjusted to reduce ills of replacement! Check you lower A arm rear bracket for being bent as well as both ball joints on both sides! Take it all down and to inspect and check your spring timing location with the hole provided for timing! Two inch off-set wheels on the front works for us! Roll out if changed with off-set, air pressure, alignment and shock combination can change a multitude of factors and kill a good set-up! The close variation between right soft and left firm shocks can lock it down and slow reaction timing in any set up, going in and coming out! We run 2 points softer with the left stiffer to allow a faster nose as well as faster recovery getting off straighter but with softer left spring loaded and stronger right but unloaded to move easily and this gives more transfer to left rear for instant bite! A 5 left and 3 right. ft. and 4s rear ! All straight valve shocks but we do no hiking on the left rear! That would add steer when trying to get off straight or drive under those that are using that type of set-up! This also keeps tire temps from changing set-ups after a few hard laps by airing them up! Our rear bar angles are more on the right to add right side bight when rolled as not to have a push and allow roll out to work! This to keeps the right tire cooler with more even bite with two wheels to handle traction of the horses better! A greater rear percent is needed but if faster and both front wheels firmly planted as well as rear it goes through the turn straighter and faster while in the throttle while very drivable! A bent J-bar or slider bracket adjuster can deal some misery also! More wreck details may help! Was both rears the same temp? Be sure to lube your brake pivot inside the adjuster at the screw pivot can rust and lock up and hold residual pressure! Ask my buddy Kyle P. after thinking the rear gears were binding up and changing the rear-end out twice and losing several races on that account! He used all rear brake and never adjusted them but the pivot still has to move and must be free to do so! WD 40 and some old school put him back up front after weeks of having the points dwindle away and throwing his money away! Pay attention to every small detail in anything that moves!