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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 12, 2014 13:43:58 GMT -6
Where is your chassis in terms of doing all you desire in drivability and horses? Stuck back in the same rut again or advancing weekly by changing something to the total good of the car! Consider all the cons of any move and keep no prisoners as you change! If not winning change it all and start from scratch with no preconceived ideas! Just use all the pros and no cons will be there to hinder your setup! Use a good left percent 53-54! A good rear percent LLR to keep it hooked! Loaded and unloaded springs to allow travel with- out a great poundage change! Spring positioning for cross and pivot! A healthy unchanging left rear for drive without bar angles! A right drive to steer and straighten with bar angles! A loaded left front to make it plant the right rear and help it roll to hold traction in the use of roll out! Extra caster to make sure it happens when you say turn in any direction on or off the throttle! A left lean to even things out as to come back to straighten out easier! Steering both front and rear at the same time! Shocks that allow the nose and roll process easily as well as doing the same to transfer weight of momentum to the rear using the cross when lifting or on the throttle! ARE WE THERE YET??? Are you just going to keep driving??? A chassis should work to an advantage instead of against one!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 12, 2014 19:25:25 GMT -6
Keeping notes or books of past ventures in setups may help some to recall what once was but where are you now? Missing the smallest of details can be a hard cold truth after the flag drops! Years of watching teams swap things to better there chances from race to race and track to track has hit home as no notes were taken on our part! Free time between races is best used helping others---from--- where they are now! Looking at setups and wondering what is the next move has become common place as others call there guy to ask what next! We went down this road also but we never came back! Week to week, night to night, race to race on the scales it never was the same anyhow! A change to the better to improve the chassis should be one for the whole of all things related or not at all! Tracks do change, lines you have to run change, corners change, holes in the track, entry speed changes! Don't change for one when it is never curtain ever again! Allow the car to adjust to anything dished out by your settings! How? Give the driver control of pounds at each wheel, stay with in ranges of travel on shocks and springs, use drive at the correct wheel instead of over steer to control bite in the wrong direction! Keep the left stable and make the right side work for you! No book of secrets here to look over after 35 years of moving from where you are now! Just free info of progress made easy!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 7, 2014 18:19:34 GMT -6
With air dynamics in mind, even a airplane needs more banking to turn at high speeds! What were we thinking of not having a under wing to deal with and no flaps! If the track angle is lacking, maybe the car should lean left even more! I am sure there are some rules about this in some classes but it just needs to change in the turns and not sitting in tech!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 9, 2014 8:15:17 GMT -6
One thing, reasoned out by design in placement can improve but not with out compliance of the next in-line! Air in the tire, then offset of the rim by leverage to the spring by weight and travel by compressed heights and movement in the chassis! This may be beating a dead horse to some but is most important in holding pounds at each wheel to hold to the track at all cost by design! Leverage changes spring weights needed as to compressed heights and keeps the spring more with-in its range of poundage with less movement at the spring but more at the wheel! This while the leverage moves more easily for a smoother ride keeping the tire well planted! Looking from the chassis' point of view, less movement to upset the balance or free motion of the workings of the bars! Most use softer springs with more motion with less offsets and travel poundage in roll is compromised in the drop of pounds as well as the transfer of pounds as the spring gives to the reaction! Thus traction is lost by low transfer rates front to rear! A stiffer set-up does need, more off sets and softer shocks to soften the ride and quicken the transfer but its all for the good as poundage at the wheels goes up! The sudden change on the right rear being tucked under by roll or j-bar adjustments can throw weight so fast as to lift the left ft. in the air leaving you half the ft. steer and right rear traction you needed so badly to hook up! Leaning left and keeping the right bars higher helps to hold the lt. ft. down steering and bar angles give momentary right drive to push you car left and let roll-out do its job! Thus it comes off straighter and hooked! Left rear and bite has nothing to do with traction in terms other than cross and percentages in which are most different at static with out torque and transfer applied! Not to mention the countless angles changing all factors in the turns! We must over come this to complicated for me or too much to learn by asking more questions to make sense of them one at a time!!! If to much, to fast, step in and slow it down! I am a slow person but it gives me more time for absorbing more detail! Its my transfer that is a bit off as in most set-ups! Thus traction in learning is effected! Help me out here guys!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 12, 2014 11:19:35 GMT -6
Or you tripping your car with off-sets and tracking changes made by too much change to quickly and trying to correct it with a shock package? Are you dropping your pounds and doing your best just to hold on and needing more to get off the turn than you can transfer? Are you steering so much you closest friend is the wall or the car outside around the turn holding you low? Is your car so tight it gets loose or so loose it gets tight? Do you think it might go around the other direction better? Is the only tire hot the one not used that you wear out? Do you really think more roll out, or over steer helps it turn and hold a line? Have you ever ran a leaf spring car with the rear closed to win? Under drive and not over steer is a start in turning left and getting off straight! Do you or have you ran traction control while blaming your horses? Is the number of pounds in your left ft. depend on how hard it drops or the spring and shock transfer to right rear traction? Do you have your chain set to save your shock or short bars to control hike and steer under power to straighten up off the turn by adding more? Just a little quicker transfer to think on while trying to catch the falling!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 23, 2014 10:56:37 GMT -6
What makes more sense? Pushing a weight of 200 lbs. in a wheelbarrow in zero wind or a 100 pound weight into a 80 mph. wind while standing taller? Would you rather just flip it over and ride out the storm underneath by sitting still! This is how I look at adding lead to the rear to bring up rear percent for traction! I see the effort just to roll a added 200 lbs. with a hiked up chassis to add air drag or it just hidden down low creating no air drag and not having to hike to make down force! Don't forget all the other things it can do for a chassis' needs! Holding on to left rear and cross while allowing a free nose effect with more travel! Not letting the left roll but forcing the planting of the right rear quicker! Traction transfer instantly without the hike or added steer needed! A means of achieving the correct preloads to let the chassis control the turns by holding pounds at all four wheels! Moving the pivot point of all movement to the left rear for more stable control of cross and balance centers! Need I say more??? Can you see it happening YET?
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 9, 2014 19:43:19 GMT -6
Does it even matter were it is if you need more or less to work better! I have seen many changes in links and positions of indexing to improve one condition or the other caused by something else! Expulsion is the best remedy instead of the smear of minor relief! If one effects the other wrongly think of the chain of command in getting it done in the first place! Changing the stripes of major concerns doesn't get rid of the smell no matter what direction it goes from there! If left rear is what wins, why are so many trying to push it away or over to the right? Holding the fort is sometimes better than moving elsewhere with higher expectations unless transferred from the front with plenty of reserve to make it right across the lines of balanced power!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 17, 2014 15:05:59 GMT -6
Where are you now? No need to be confused or dead certain in what is right or wrong if you are not on the same page or setup as they all vary so in this or that working! Just keep in mind the fundamentals of each idem as used before looking at the good or bad it offers elsewhere! The key is does it correct a different problem and mask its identity! You may want to go back to spring and shock combos before trying to control movement that should not even be happening if the springs held there balance and crosses in check with in a closer range!Example--- A 1,000 pound unloaded against a 800 preloaded by 200, which moves first and how far before coil bind? A 25lb stronger left rear with preload to push up and hold pounds while a weaker right has the preload set by the stronger lt. ft. through the cross to limit roll movement before coil bind! Decide where you want movement and limitations set by preloads by weight placement and transfer to get travel you want! You might try to measure springs but you may see the points mentioned and understand their usage! Variations is what sets it all and you can follow the reasons as the chassis moves to its ease or limitations! Start simple with softer or firmer and then the quickness of shocks the same as you lift the throttle roll and apply the throttle again! If too hard to follow, just put a marble under the center of a book and place weights on top of each corner to see where the marble has to be moved to hold a said balance with your cars distribution in mind! A lot can be learned from balance and pivot points to ease the nose and roll as well as where the best recovery point to place weight for that reason alone! A whole new use for poker chips or spare change!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 3, 2015 4:23:39 GMT -6
I know it 3:39 AM but where are you now? 150 or so visit this site a day and no-one post a question or comment even to leave a suggestion or helpful hint! Members should wake up to the fact that this is your site and at least let someone know you are in or out with my dribble! I have and will try my best to help in any way I can with what I know with my past years of yesterday's (2/2/2015) and tomorrows know-how! Many have never been so blessed to have had the time or training to make all the mistakes I have had to learn from! My only hope is to have enlightened or awakened new out looks on the problems at hand! We can't all win with tracks being at best 5 lanes wide but I can only hope my presents has helped more than just a few to improve at what they love best! I can say that a few have stepped up their game and responded in private messaging of their gains after conversing that way and being able to win!!! I know your set-up may need to be kept confidential but who is going to believe you if you tell them exactly the truth! I never had to lie about anything in mine while winning more than most! No one ever believes it will work! The same can be said for my engine improvements! I don't crunch all the numbers but just know the direction that things have to go to do there job! Its hard to explain what you don't know, not being a facts person! I shake your hand and your name goes right through my head! All room is reserved or taken by skills of my trade! My people skills are limited but my heart, engine tech, and chassis set-up is in the right place for winning! My life has proven this to be true and a little quite time on the computer is very relaxing if only helping someone in need!!! You should be so lucky as to do the same by posting a comment or posing scenario!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 6, 2015 19:56:59 GMT -6
What makes more sense? Pushing a weight of 200 lbs. in a wheelbarrow in zero wind or a 100 pound weight into a 80 mph. wind while standing taller? Would you rather just flip it over and ride out the storm underneath by sitting still! This is how I look at adding lead to the rear to bring up rear percent for traction! I see the effort just to roll a added 200 lbs. with a hiked up chassis to add air drag or it just hidden down low creating no air drag and not having to hike to make down force! Don't forget all the other things it can do for a chassis' needs! Holding on to left rear and cross while allowing a free nose effect with more travel! Not letting the left roll but forcing the planting of the right rear quicker! Traction transfer instantly without the hike or added steer needed! A means of achieving the correct preloads to let the chassis control the turns by holding pounds at all four wheels! Moving the pivot point of all movement to the left rear for more stable control of cross and balance centers! Need I say more??? Can you see it happening YET? So many good Ideas lost to the muck by others not willing to learn for the fear of more education needed!
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Post by dirttrackandretti on Jul 13, 2015 0:14:44 GMT -6
This setup works. Thank you flipflop. IMCA northern sport mod with aftermarket 3 link setup. I could not drive nor did I like the hiked up 3 wheeling setups at all. So I got used to fading fast and finishing out back making laps. With only two nights trying this setup I am feeling that I am going to have something to start running up front. Car loves to be driven hard on the gas and turn left easily while still having great feel in the steering wheel and a very stable car turning both left and right if avoiding or passing other cars or accidents. Thank you flipflop00100. So far so good.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 13, 2015 16:44:43 GMT -6
Remember the DOG! Don't tell them about the BITE!!! BAD TO THE BONE!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 13, 2015 16:56:19 GMT -6
So WHERE ARE YOU NOW-----What would you guys rather have, help with your set-up or one that needs none by adjusting itself to the speed and track-- with driver controlling the rest at all four corners of the chassis?--- ONCE CORRECT OF COURSE!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 8, 2015 19:32:29 GMT -6
GUYS-- I get this a lot! This is over my head! Please Know This-- Nothing really is and if this county boy can figure it out, you can too! I question everything to the point of correct answers as I can relate and yours can and should be different as to improve from where you are now!!! I've had a bit of a jump start is all at my age! No reason not to give any and all your full attenion to figure your own answers to each question you have! I consult all others to derive at most any conclusion in life! No need in phyical numbers in air pressure by a guage! If low because of load just air it up untill it holds and then check for a refference! I tune timing by ear and then ck the timing to know if changed! The fact of 57 degrees insted of the adverage of 38 is only noted by the lack of compression and low grade of fuels but my burn timing is the same in theory as yours by settings used! The horses developed is the difference by design and not convential at all by no means! SO WHERE AM I NOW--- WHO KNOWS THIS WEEK AS THE WEATHER CHANGES IT ALL!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 8, 2015 1:23:33 GMT -6
Our season about over but still winning with multi cars this year has me still thinking it all over again as you know someone somewhere is getting faster too! You have all winter to read my post and ask all you need to start off your next season with multiple wins!!! Pulling a rabbit out of the racing hat is not my way of racing! Brush up and start winning by what you know and not how much you spend!!!
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