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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 18, 2014 23:28:31 GMT -6
How much do you need while sideways in the turn? You have to be able to stand on it any where any time! Even to the point of sliding up the track to hook and move forward! Does your cam profile dictate or do you use foot control? Does your power valve rule? My vote is just the horses I can hook and use progressively, any and all of the time! 300 up as speed, gear and traction allows! Traction control by over fueling and dropping timing can get the job done for a car length or two but don't mess with my cam's pulling range or torque curve to get there! I want them where I can reach them at all times! Use only what you choose while on the floor! No feathering or easing into the masses! Hooked is hooked tacky or not seems the same way! Faster!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 26, 2014 12:10:57 GMT -6
If still looking for more horses, they most likely won't come in a box! All the little ones can create a herd of unbelievable added power when piled on top! Things as simple as indexing plugs or valve adjustments can create the need for more fuel to feed a higher timed engine! A simple drop in engine temps by adding more fuel will create the need for even more fuel! Changing the configuration of the air cleaner or exhaust being angle cut instead of square may take a few more jet sizes to keep up with your tune! A gear change as you put them to good use can require a new total tune to make better use of them! Using all the tricks requires more than assembly to harness what the DYNO has to offer! A new set of spurs may wake up a few forgotten ones to be corralled by other means! Look into the tune of it all and not just set the timing by the light of the moon or Sun light! Try setting by ear to see where it would prefer to be and adjust fuel to that point! Unlock the weights to allow for cranking and limit the change to with-in reason of pulling ranges! I recommend the loss of the power-valve and going up 5 jet sizes as the first move in finding more horses! This move alone will do no good with out the timing change and getting it jetted correctly to the load applied! Cooler engine temps is a must!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 10, 2014 12:20:54 GMT -6
Some are under the false assumption that getting the left front in the air is horse power but not always the case! The split in the rear springs is the culprit! Too soft on the right rear or too much left rear drive angle raising the cross and letting it fall over to the right pivoting the left ft. up easily! Horses are best used in forward motion by any means at hand rather than lifting the front or the rear!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 12, 2014 4:02:27 GMT -6
If you were lucky enough to have lived in the Muscle car era and to have had a chance to own a few and race a few and work on all kinds of engines to make them faster to win first night out at the drag strip, you would be walking in my shoes! Back then dirt was no friend of mine! Big blocks weren't either! Too easy!!! Have you ever took a mostly stock 283 and kicked some 440 6 pack ass? It was run what you got back then and 12,000 rpms wasn't un-heard of! Some factory street cars came well equipped but not even drivable when wet, breaking the tires loose at sixty on a dry day wasn't too hard for some by just mashing too hard! Traction had to be addressed first and foremost as with dirt! De-tune or weight or rather vise-versa as options fade to bog and gear ratio to stay hooked! The power feed system is a bit more sensitive on dirt but not a rainy day! Its the best time to study positive traction designs!
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