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Post by racinfan83 on Aug 30, 2014 12:04:07 GMT -6
Anyone have any good advice on grooving patterns on Hoosier Mod tires? We've been experimenting with different angles, amount of grooves, etc. but this is our first year able to groove. Need some advice/pics on best patterns???
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Aug 30, 2014 15:54:57 GMT -6
They are different alright! Can cure a push or create one! Change the heat factors in both directions faster! Make a car quiver from so much bite! Work great 3-8 laps then turn loose! 1/2 as much on the rt rear side of tire and car and none on outer edges to cause extra wear! It changes compounds as well in feat factors in blocking smaller left than right side of car! Left ft and left rear should be close as to not let it push easily! Rear with the same on both sides can lock down at times or split as right gets hotter going bananas if not addressed first! As in set-ups, only more factors of change to consider but well worth the trouble unless new tires with new factors and then no groves needed! OLD SCHOOL-- It might be different today!!!!
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Post by racinfan83 on Aug 31, 2014 9:28:50 GMT -6
Well the first couple weeks we didn't know the rule had changed and we were allowed to groove. And boy were we behind the ball on that one. We have been heavily grooving the outer edge of the RR and inner edge of LR to add traction as the tire rolls over in the corners. Helped a TON. We had to back off of that a bit on the RR due to extra wear - but we can buy tires so traction is more important then wearing out a tire every week or two. We stagger the grooves from outside to inside instead of going clear across the tire? And I've been leaving the two center "bars" ungrooved. Lately we have tried an angled groove on the outside the same direction as a tractor tire. Not sure if this is helping or hurting us? With our "snap loose" condition in the center under accel it is tough to tell if any difference from the straight grooves? Angles a good idea or no?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 7:27:33 GMT -6
Ya, I have cut them up every way you can. As the season has gone on we are cutting less and less and just siping the heck out of the A's and H's. Grooving out the edges on the RR is a help as you mentioned, I cut a deep groove all the way around the tire where the outer edge blocks meet the first main chainlink tread. There is lots of meat on the edge of the tire so I make that groove twice as deep as it is new, then put the iron in that deep groove and cut out the grooves in the outer edge going out to the sidewall. It almost looks like a snow tire tread when you are done, but sure digs into a heavy track. All the angle cuts dont seem to do anything on these tires other than tear and chunk them out.
Dave
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Post by racinfan83 on Sept 3, 2014 9:24:09 GMT -6
Yeah I hear Ya. Haven't done circumference grooves yet. Siped em both ways and had some chunking issues so we quit. Was looking at Hoosiers site - their sprint tires have minimal angles on inside and outside and grooves across. May try one like that just to see what happens...
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 3, 2014 10:30:15 GMT -6
Better that way with more fore thought in holding a heat range in changing the compounds of alike tires by grooving to keep the push away 8 laps down the track! Keeping heat out by not grooving or cooling the right or warming the left can go different places fast with different set-ups! In the different track and car conditions, we try to save a few new but older tires for the right rear as a heat factor balance without grooving! Running less roll out than most, the older tires don't stretch as bad week to week or race to race on the right rear where heat changes compounds! It hardly makes 2 pounds with just air in a non stop 20 hard laps, but not many of those races today! A five or seven laps if lucky of bite from hell is needed for all the restarts! If bite is needed from lack of transfer!
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