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Post by vrtfarms on Oct 14, 2014 13:32:39 GMT -6
About EDM lifters. Try this www.chevelles.com/forums/printthread.php?t=284732 Just food for thought, but I would just go .030 on first build so you can freshin or rebuild if needed. Leaves you .010 to play with. I would also unlock dizzy and run heavy weights. Just put a vacumn pot, plugged, to control it. Lots easier on your starter. I run Weiand intake with 2 bar. And yes, tire prep plays a big roll if your running G60s, also groove and sipe if you can. = VintageMod
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Post by crowdpleazer on Oct 14, 2014 19:21:20 GMT -6
I will look into those lifters. Makes sense as it makes for better oil flow and keeps it in the lifters.
A little research comes up with mixed reviews on hypertonic pistons. Seems as forged is better for a racing engine. Looked at some prices and OUCH! Not completely out of the budget but wasnt expecting that. Only looked at keith black so far. Still looking...
Still undecided on heads. Engine builder is willing to rebuild heads or bolt on anything I buy. He has very limited experience with 2 barrels also.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 14, 2014 20:18:24 GMT -6
The factor of overheating sooner or later requires forethought in pistons, rings and clearances! Thin rings that are steel haven't the longevity of heat diversity! Cast has served us well with only freeing the pin friction and beveling the bottom of the skirt to hold oil there rather than shave it off the cylinder wall to relieve friction and hold the piston centered with .006 clearance. The cooler you can run by less friction is horses in more ways than one! You can run lighter polished rods and thinner shortened pins to drop the weight a bit on pistons! Added crank clearance just adds oil weight to be slung away constantly! A N/F cast crank is about 4lbs. lighter than steel! A hub only or light weight V6 balancer on the old style cranks helps too! Head choices in cooling is horses as well as water ports in your gaskets! Some over look the cooler aspect of horses in block prep! A slick hone finish is a must! No crosses needed as every thing is new and perfectly round and needs no break-in to seat! Less start up friction to wear in or heat up your engine! Oil restrictors are horses too in keeping oil down stairs away from the heat of heads to run a cooler engine! I use every cool trick to get temps down to be able to make more horsepower! Intake shields and block-offs, opening oil drain points to keep it off the crank on the way down! Vent tubes in the valleys rather than plugs! Tricking out my own water pump to run more reduction but pump more to cool using up less horses! Get it down to 150 degrees and see the horses jump up when you can put more fuel and air in to be expanded by burn rather than the heat of the engine or compression robbing it of its expanding power during its power stroke! Having and keeping vacuum at your pulling range to vaporize and cause the refrigeration process to freeze the mixture can only be done when all else is helping to run cool! When you put frost on your cast iron intake running pump gas, you know the horses are there!
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Post by crowdpleazer on Oct 16, 2014 14:19:26 GMT -6
Not arguing with engine temps but 150 seems cold to me. I guess if everything was clearanced to run that cold it would be ok. Engines on the street run 200-220 all the time. NASCAR pushes higher than that. I was always told that hotter makes it more efficient. But it depends on many more factors not listed here I guess. All season I never went over 200 on the track with this current engine.
Agreed that keeping the intake cooler helps. That's what high rise and air gap intakes are for. Unfortunately I cant run those. Just an aluminum intake with a 2barrel adapter is all im allowed. My friend has a taller carb adapter on his car that I may look into...
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Post by Krooser on Oct 16, 2014 21:26:24 GMT -6
Hypers are a bit more brittle… but you can run tighter clearances that will cut down on blow-by. Here's a tip… join up over at www.speedtalk.com and click on the engine forum. the joint is loaded with engine builders, cam grinders, piston makers, etc. Incredible info… and sign up on my new forum, too. I hope to make it an interesting joint to visit… www.wissotatech.boards.net see you there...
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Post by Krooser on Oct 16, 2014 21:30:01 GMT -6
.030 is good but .060 will net a bit more HP if the cylinder walls are thick enough. I'm thinking of doing a partial block fill on my 2015 SBM in my super stock. Gotta see how thick they are first. Ring seal is important especially with low tension rings.
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Post by Krooser on Oct 17, 2014 9:22:38 GMT -6
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 18, 2014 9:27:01 GMT -6
Not arguing with engine temps but 150 seems cold to me. I guess if everything was clearanced to run that cold it would be ok. Engines on the street run 200-220 all the time. NASCAR pushes higher than that. I was always told that hotter makes it more efficient. But it depends on many more factors not listed here I guess. All season I never went over 200 on the track with this current engine. Agreed that keeping the intake cooler helps. That's what high rise and air gap intakes are for. Unfortunately I cant run those. Just an aluminum intake with a 2barrel adapter is all im allowed. My friend has a taller carb adapter on his car that I may look into... A lot of horses just for the thought of them in most anyway you look! The word related to cool is mileage if talking NASCAR! I just used my head instead of conventional methods! As far as heat expansion in a engine and clearances, all related parts expand about the same! Fuel however is best expanded during the power stroke! The cold fuel does cool the piston down quickly after going wicked lean for a second or two! A form of added boost to a over fueled cool running engine! No need for aluminum intake or larger ports and valves if you can double the flow otherwise to burn more fuel correctly for more snow white power! 12 gallons in a 20 lap 1/4 mile race when other don't burn 12 all night long and the plugs like new is burning the condensed air and fuel! I cant make this happen at 200 degrees and get the horses it takes to win! Read some of my other post to understand how it works to produce horses instead of building them with parts!
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