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383
Dec 17, 2014 22:32:06 GMT -6
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Post by trollman92 on Dec 17, 2014 22:32:06 GMT -6
Im building a 3 link car for pro stock alot of guys are running big motors like 434/440. Whats your opinon on a light weight 383. The car ways 3000lbs we have to run a box stock holly 2 barrel and the track is a 3/8 oval with long straightaways and sharp turns
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383
Dec 18, 2014 9:17:40 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 18, 2014 9:17:40 GMT -6
With that distance and weight the larger cubes is the thing in longevity! Do you have any idea of RPMs and their gear ratios as to a start in what might can be done to off set the difference! Any engine rules or chip limits? Can you remove the choke shaft and flap and chunk the power valve? Are you building the engine or buying one built?
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383
Dec 18, 2014 12:07:16 GMT -6
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Post by trollman92 on Dec 18, 2014 12:07:16 GMT -6
Building the engine. Theres no limit for the motor but no roll cams and no aluminum block or head
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383
Dec 18, 2014 17:46:30 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 18, 2014 17:46:30 GMT -6
The block issue ups the cost but at least a 5.7 406 with light weight parts! If you stay flat tops and closed chambered heads you can make it turn up with a 2 barrel! You need to check into Asymmetrical cams as they are quite the thing with longer strokes! I have a guy to ask and I will! You may not need more valve size! I will check on that too! Do you have the intake yet or heads? What fuel do you want to run?
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383
Dec 18, 2014 22:45:36 GMT -6
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Post by trollman92 on Dec 18, 2014 22:45:36 GMT -6
A few things changed. I got a dart iron eagle block with the raised cam. Its going to be 440 cubes. I think the best head is going to be darts iron eagle head 220cc runners with a little work. But the problem is what cam because we cant run roller cams? Do you think a jetted 2 barrel will feed the motor?
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383
Dec 19, 2014 7:38:48 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 19, 2014 7:38:48 GMT -6
No problem with fuel the thing is air! A special plastic filter was used with hand sized dip in the center to funnel it in! Changing to this filter 10 years ago with a two barrel, we had to go up 2 jet sizes! I am not sure it fits with out modification of air horn! To get more in you need to condense it by cooling the engine down to 150 degrees and having good vacuum to vaporize to create refrigeration! My cast iron intakes would be covered with frost using pump gas! I never used larger runners or valves but rather condensed and sped the flow by having them small to get it there quicker before the heat of the engine expanded my fuel! Sounds nuts but I had to run 57-60 degrees of timing to make it burn where needed! It was a bit slow catching up but when it did this expansion by less compression having to be made gave me more of a saved power burst were it is more important, in the power stroke! Asymmetrical and 1.6 rockers with a solid or even a hydraulic cam can get you the same specs to do the job with the numbers at the valves! I've never ran so big or long in my process as it wasn't needed! Never ran Asymmetric cams as I got the effects and numbers differently! I can say that we burned twice the fuel(pump gas) and my plugs were white! 10-12 gallons in the 1/4 mile A-main with a .066 350 against 383s and 400s! Getting rid of the power-valve is a must as to vacuum coming up and closing the fuel back on top end! You do have a larger pump with 440! Make sure you keep it idled up and drill the throttle plate or it will suck the rod bolts into when you lift! A dash pot to catch the throttle may help also! I can't imagine the stress on the trany with that much motor and that heavy of a car with high gears to keep the RPMs down! What kind do you have?--- fuel, trany, gears, rpms??? Compression and fuel will need to be right to have a longer burn to feed that much stroke and piston speed! Rod swing is like gear ratio between the piston and crank! While it gains in leverage you lose stroke in the cushion of the burn! I try to time my fuel burn like cooking on the grill! 3 kinds of meats, 3 time limits on cooking, 3 temp ranges, and 3 kinds of burn in my charcoal use! Match light, lighter fluid cheap grade common and Royal oak for the long haul! Too much compression is going to burn faster and require certain timing in one spot to get the most out of that one position in the stroke for its power! I try to follow it all the way through by matching burn timing and piston speeds in my head! It has paid off in power with less! Variable ign. timing instead fuel ratios to air by the power valve is more control over going lean when running on the edge to gain power to start with!!!
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383
Dec 19, 2014 7:56:27 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 19, 2014 7:56:27 GMT -6
Valve size and runners are important as it should be pulled and not let loose of the draw effect to hold it cold and not let the expansion process happen until ign. takes place! This gives you a bit more control over fuel verses compression in the burn timing! A little top lube always extends the burn a bit by slowing and finalizing it! Some refuse to use such things as there process is matched to one key point of burst!
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383
Apr 27, 2015 1:33:53 GMT -6
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 27, 2015 1:33:53 GMT -6
A longer stroke requites less timing on cam and ign. to take the down-force off the bottom end and put it to the crank in due time when leverage factors are greater ! with so much dwell timing and faster piston speeds it is best to go with more room for fuel and valve clearance than to deck or close chambers to make more of what is not needed--- just back things up forwards a bit and see the advantages in leverage to the crank with faster burning pump gas to stay up with piston speeds with longer burn strokes to match the rest of long stroke issues in their dynamics with any cam used--
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