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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 21, 2015 22:18:23 GMT -6
I have worked with lots of different systems and methods of making a engine run cooler, some are prone to run warmer by cam degree or exhaust tune even! There is a lot of good info in the archives! Running a 75% reduction and getting it down to 150 degrees to make some serious low cost horses takes most every trick in the book, from the perfect fan pitch to bending the ends over to the number of blades for the correct bite at said RPMs needed only when not moving very fast to the fin court and by-pass options of flow! Also there is the factor of where pressure is dropped in the system when in the cycle of heat exchange--- thus the restrictor washer factor! Some do and some don't work as planed due to one detail or another! Impeller designs in volumes and pressures needed on one side of the story or amounts of suction on the other! Some times a good system can be compromised by the wrong cap pressure as to too much or not enough depending on type of coolant used and its abilities with said factors to shed its energy properly! I have seen intakes that absorbed more than the rad. but not for long as vapor lock at lifting is short lived! Making sure any intake gets cold under the carb is a good start at cooling a engine down! When you can pull frost off the top of the cast iron intake on pump gas in two minutes at 2500 rpms at 150 degrees you have mastered a few extra cool horses well deserved!
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