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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 1, 2015 19:53:38 GMT -6
I for one have seen some engines that gave their all and did so all season while others with the best of parts refused to stay together or perform as expected! I have seen engine builders that didn't know a dirt engine was different than a drag motor! Most found out in just a few laps of lifting hard! Clearances and temps can get out of hand fast with out the forethought of vacuum effecting it all! Its strange that lower compression and smaller valves can perform so well as to out run and out last some high dollar engines! I do and have done a lot of strange things to a engine in order to win! Most engines would not stand 60 degrees of ign. timing or burn twice the fuel or even crank on pump gas in some cases of our escapades in using all we had wisely! Winning with less has been a learning process no doubt for more than just us and a few tech men and on-lookers that never saw any stock engines run , much less win so much! I would have to say that science and a good shop class on metals paved my way to the narrow path on which I trod! Just not knowing better than to believe in the simplicity of it all to excel on most any related form of less friction and not by just adding clearance to reduce friction or have more oil to cool it down but the ability to keep it cool to start with and save expansion for the fuel mixture once the valves are closed and after the plug has fired! By design, if it needs only 18degrees ign. timing to run correctly fine by me but with some junky engines I put together it wants and needs 60 degrees to perform as planed! No grunt during cranking and you would think something is off some where as to it smoothness in starting! Just leave the fire on and hit the button! With less compression and engine temps to help burn twice the fuel it does require twice the air and a lot more spark even at 60 degrees to get it to sound like a top fuel dragster! A bit louder than most even with turndowns as it usually draws instant looks and a crowd most of the time! If you don't build your on car and motor, I can understand as the amount of time it takes to get it correct is not a overnight thing even when you thought you paid for it to be that way! Its all the little things that adds up to a good build in theory when it wins that counts! Just be cool with it and add another 50 horses!!! Good luck on your next build or buy!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 4, 2015 2:37:36 GMT -6
4.086 Is pretty dam thin but its about the cheapest way to get to our limit on cubic inches! While a lot of rebuilders hate to loose a dime, .060-.080 bores are setting around gathering dust and taking up their valuable space with life still left to give! If you have seen the difference .030 and 6 inch rods made, you might want to consider a junk spare engine as a back-up! If you can run cool and on a budget, the difference between .030 and sixty is a boost from .060 about the same more over than .030 and 6 inch rods are from stock! Once there and wanting a bit more the twenty extra at .080 is twice as good from .030 and 6 inch rods to .060 even if both are on stock rods! I like rod swing myself with my process as it takes a little down force off the crank and gives a ratio advantage to my burn cycle in thrust pounds applied by simple leverage! I don't try to push the mains out threw the pan but rather just spin the crank easier! Don't worry about those heavy pistons!!! How much does aluminum weigh anyhow? Its the rods and wrist pins in question! Just buy lighter ones or chop the pins a bit and polish the rods for both strength and match the weights on piston and rod if scared! I use 305X rods on .060 but prefer the polished X or O- 350 rods on .080 to handle the 2X load! It takes me about 4 hours per rod to lighten and polish one rod and then when dry and clean after match weighing them, I paint them with high heat, oil resistant paint to keep them cooler! Not much do I leave to look at or feel when handled and most who have, thought they were high tech aluminum! Before you waist your time you may want to have even the best rods tested for egg, twist, or balance on a rod machine! Never grind, cut or polish sideways on a rod! Also keep in mind its frictional direction of engine side if not shot pinged to relieve this static stress! A plastic bead blaster just won't do the job but looks nice! Its a polarity thing in energy not to be taken likely! Its likened to beating your dog to make him go back home, it will bite you in the ass later while not paying attention to details! So it's a rod bolt broke in your new engine kind of thing for no good reason at eight grand! Some of us learned the hard way that static friction has direction in the molecular bonding of metals and you don't play with reversing stressed metals! Not for long as it effects tempered ones greatly and foremost as in good quality rod bolts that seem to fall apart! Three brands of quality that trashed three so called junk motors in a row with 21 laps combined, before season! Figured it out and ran another whole season winning with the same design junk motor! So now if used even down to the nut pull on the threads, direction and side is correct! Used parts takes a bit more effort in being static-ly correct than new, un-polarized ones! You some times with good cores of coarse, can buy three block assemblies for around a thousand bucks if they can't get rid of them to the public or by making them a deal of no cams, chain gears, oil pumps, and covers! We do run stock but after years we have our own supply! I am no fan of sleeves but if welded in top and bottom, they seem to work as planned with my cool running process! I always run block and bore sealer year round to insure no leaks occur whenever to ruin my junk motors! We all do what we have to, to win, except cheat that is!!! What fun would that even be? What do you mean why am I asking you???
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 4, 2015 4:32:29 GMT -6
Have you ever cut your heads and block so much as to have spark plug thread marks in you flat tops? Some tend to want a bit more by hook or crook but I like to leave plenty of room! The best of shops some times can't even calculate fly cut angles with head and block modifications! Say what-- CHAMPER the top edge of the block for swirl and un-shroud the intake valve on a .030 over bore With what sized valves??? Not much call for all this at .060 or.080, there is little room to work with! I do however believe in tucking my thick gasket back under a bit for the same effect! It drops compression a bit but gets the fire ring burning all the way around and back to center! Some pistons have this bevel but it puts the fire closer to the top ring for failure! What were they thinking? Its like groves above the ring and close to the edge for cooling effects on the pistons from the fuel! They just melt sooner with it thin and exposed, and I know MELTING!!! How much top piston side, above ring clearance is needed for rock-over?  They all still think my 60 degrees of ign. timing on pump gas is causing this burn out! It should melt the A/C plug end off and misfire and cool down before harming a thing internally if correct parts are used! What good is forged if screwed up by design! How close do you look at your high dollar parts of today? Is yours beveled, grooved and sharp on the skirts? Are your wristpins thin and floated and plugged? Do they transfer heat to the rods or just a bit shorter and pressed in with more friction heat travel in one direction! Does the to and fro neutralize the static friction from the bottom end or just block it to have a cooler rod? Its a bigger picture than most of us even care to ponder but isn't it nice somebody does, somewhere to have better designs in things to come! Just waiting to see what they plaster the pistons with next! A bit of smooth might be nice on a short trip at high speeds, after all oil has weight!!! Even a two-stroke seems to manage OK with that! |
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They all still think my 60 degrees of ign. timing on pump gas is causing this burn out! It should melt the A/C plug end off and misfire and cool down before harming a thing internally if correct parts are used! What good is forged if screwed up by design! How close do you look at your high dollar parts of today? Is yours beveled, grooved and sharp on the skirts? Are your wristpins thin and floated and plugged? Do they transfer heat to the rods or just a bit shorter and pressed in with more friction heat travel in one direction! Does the to and fro neutralize the static friction from the bottom end or just block it to have a cooler rod? Its a bigger picture than most of us even care to ponder but isn't it nice somebody does, somewhere to have better designs in things to come! Just waiting to see what they plaster the pistons with next! A bit of smooth might be nice on a short trip at high speeds, after all oil has weight!!! Even a two-stroke seems to manage OK with that!