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Post by teamgrt12x on Feb 9, 2015 2:41:02 GMT -6
Hey guys, got a couple questions. I'm pretty familiar with the Pinto spindle/granada rotor setup we've been running for ages on our modifieds. We're building a car now that uses the intermediate GM Stub (73-77 Chevelle) and using Metric Spindles for the KPI. We've had a lot of success, but I'm getting ready to go out and grab up a bunch of spindles and I want to be sure I'm getting the right stuff. If I remember right, there was a taller spindle some guys were running back years ago. What are the different Metric spindles/rotor combos available?
Thanks! 12x
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rickd39
Fourth Place
www.duricaracing.com
Posts: 54
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Post by rickd39 on Feb 10, 2015 18:43:46 GMT -6
I like to use the 1980-87 Spindles, the earlier spindles have a smaller outer bearing that doesn't hold up as well.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 11, 2015 13:28:25 GMT -6
There are a few years with full size but metric! Back in the day longer arms and lighter weight was it but I never had trouble winning with any, it was just weight and bolt pattern match on five inch! Bent more easily but spindle savers and lighter boxes still give way to poor drivability of a chassis!!! Watch out for that second year on a small quicken-er or no power and not rolling while trying to turn! We popped several just getting in the shop or pushing into the trailer not running on 3150 cars with big tires!
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Post by ssm31 on Feb 11, 2015 21:57:56 GMT -6
Way to kill the post
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rickd39
Fourth Place
www.duricaracing.com
Posts: 54
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Post by rickd39 on Feb 12, 2015 12:10:37 GMT -6
There are a few years with full size but metric! Back in the day longer arms and lighter weight was it but I never had trouble winning with any, it was just weight and bolt pattern match on five inch! Bent more easily but spindle savers and lighter boxes still give way to poor drivability of a chassis!!! Watch out for that second year on a small quicken-er or no power and not rolling while trying to turn! We popped several just getting in the shop or pushing into the trailer not running on 3150 cars with big tires! That is one of the longest ways of saying absolutely nothing constructive. If anything your confusing posts are counter productive.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 12, 2015 22:09:38 GMT -6
I should have been more clear! You don't need to change anything other than settings with know-how to win! Try telling that to those few who listened and won last year! Did you miss the points and warnings to be safe! You had good points in your post! Should I ignore those? Do they cause you to win? Just looking at your picture I would say your bump steer is bad off and you need to change the over cambered bearing eater problem! Just here to help as you are! Sideways is slowing you down! I know its just a picture but can you see my point! Winning so much has proven what I say is valuable and its gone to my head as well as way out front! Hey --I'm on your side les you forget that the track is the enemy! I just try to be more friendly with it too! Both pictures show the same common thing people do! Help me make better post if you will by discussion of common issues in follow the leader! Many win 3 of the next 5 races after understanding or just changing settings! Living proof!!! Hard for me to compromise on that! I will help you any way I can! It took about 150 post in private for the last one in Iowa to win after giving it a go! It may not be the norm but it is more drivable, the car is straighter and rolls free! We never even changed his motor settings! So much faster he did have to make a gear change to stay off the chip at the flag-stand! It works in any class as the track is still left and banked! Simplicity that wins! Who would not want that handed to them??? Just signed onto another second team for this season here as I have helped them to win at many tracks before! They got our old winning car minus motor of course but I had his even winning in his old car last year! I have a lot of technical and practical in 35 winning years of mods and limited cars! Stock wins easily with the right touch! Its poor designs and theories that mud the waters!!! I will try to explain any in private if you wish! Good luck is when you use your head to win!!!
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Post by racer96m on Feb 15, 2015 9:08:03 GMT -6
The biggest thing you need to be aware of going from pinto to metric is the different pin inclination. I believe a pinto is 10Deg and a metric is less, so a metric will need more static caster than a pinto to get the same feel. If your getting a pile of used spindles, invest in a spindle checker, nothing gona screw you up more than assuming you spindle is straight when its not. I check new ones and find 1 out of 5 not acceptable. Bump steer is gona be way off switching to a metric so check and reset that, if you can get the first inch of travel in compression and rebound, on both sides, to Zero bump, (so a two inch swing) the rest will be what it will be.
Dave
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