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Post by 3dracer on Sept 24, 2013 7:41:44 GMT -6
Dave! Some of us are stil running this and want to keep it quiet!!!
Dave and I were both on the same page here for quite a few years without even talking to each other. Never really met until the end of the year last year. We do just a couple things different, but really similar to that.
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Post by clark on Jan 10, 2014 7:40:09 GMT -6
This may have been touched on already, I just can't seem to find it anywhere. When running the larger Metric Implala spindles (80-90) is the only rotor you can run the 11in 5x5 rotor? We run asphalt so finding a rotor that can withstand the asphalt side of braking heat, and is 5x4.75, and fits the Impala spindle has been rough. What I am getting at is, will the Camaro rotors from the same years fit the Impala spindles? And what wheel bearings will be needed to make this work? I would like to not have two different wheel patterns on the front compared to the rear...Thanks for the help
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cd2
Pit Crew
Posts: 2
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Post by cd2 on Feb 4, 2014 21:07:36 GMT -6
jbh25 Tried to call you but no results on that. Give me a call as soon as you can. Thanks cd2 (Dan)
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 23, 2014 14:42:04 GMT -6
Left rear keeps you hooked up and under control! Think about your transitions and weights at that point! One shock can do this by misplaced changing weight!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 23, 2014 18:58:00 GMT -6
The split in your rear springs is loosing your traction in changing from right to left! a 25lb difference with the stronger on the left rear should stop this problem! The trick is to start out with more on the left and only transfer towards even traction while rolled over! The right front weight transfers to left and then through the cross to the right leaving you with low left lbs. in full roll! A travel bind in the upper ball joints can do this also as well as shocks! Check uppers for being slotted joints with lots of swing!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 23, 2014 19:11:04 GMT -6
When thinking of what is happening during compression, imagine the rt. ft. wheel being removed and see where the weight goes! the cross switches transferring all kinds of weight! Think of shocks as timing of how quick and where it goes first! Simple is easer to get the progress of load transfer and loose or tight being the number of lbs. more or less of left than right rear! on leaf springs and a metric or linked rear gets more or less steer with lean up or down depending more on springs allowing or stopping movement in stages.( A fight for position in ride heights when rolling with coil bind coming to play! ) This can get tricky with spacers coming into play as a greater leverage against the spring changes it's tension and weight on the wheel! Also on the right rear it changes roll! Getting a grip on how any change affects the rest of the car is key as all cars are and do react different. Lt rear seams to be the best place to adjust on all set-ups when close! A simple change here can loosed or tighten 15-20 ways!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 28, 2014 10:08:24 GMT -6
At full roll loosing left rear weight is my best guess or binding of front running out of movement. A low rr air pressure can do this as well as too low of a idle speed creating drag and breaking tires loose!
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Post by peterdragon on Apr 4, 2014 10:51:37 GMT -6
great info
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 4, 2014 21:00:18 GMT -6
As my setup is old school usable with all stock parts, it is most friendly! Leaning left and only rolling to level out, it gets easy to keep under you at all times! Side ways is like using the brakes going in, it slows you down! If your having to wait on anything you are going to get left behind these days! A half second lift while straight sets the mode for full throttle going in with a drop of horses to assure traction! If it is not drivable in any direction while on the throttle if the need be, how do you drive threw those five cars in one turn??? I forgot to tell the young rookie not to do that! They were up to speed and racing hard! He looked like a snake as he never touched a one of them! Fast and drivable wins! Nosing is a 4 inch drop of the rt. ft. that was a inch high to start with! Not out of a stock working range and no-where near bottoming out to work fine on a ruff track high or low! I have mandated not moving things from stock on our store bought frames! I the to move it back on a new car! Powder coat is a pain to match paint on! Heavy too! The process does relieve the stress of welds if done correctly but then it chips easily! Why did you say you were off the throttle???
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 4, 2014 22:02:43 GMT -6
I have always run all our weight low and left and 150lbs on left rear corner below the battery for a faster recovery without the roll and let the shocks and crosses do there thing! The fuel tank on the right to tighten left rear with more cross while losing rear percent as the race goes and the track is slicker! If rubber-ed up or tacky it holds and rolls harder to steer more and drive the same with the high fuel gone and more slosh! 4th place and 2 laps to go with less fuel but tighter, wins on the high or low side most every time! There is an advantage to any placement to be had when rear and left is higher on the scales by choice! A high corner speed with out the roll transition to deal with but steers just the same absolutely stock, no alterations needed to win on any given track or surface! 12 wins of 15 races is pretty good odds for stock parts when starting mid season and lapping the field! We broke 3 times while leading! Works great for us!
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