|
|
Post by antonjon on Jun 3, 2013 1:23:35 GMT -6
gotta weight 3200lb I way 3400+ already and added very little lead. 51.0 lft 49+ cross 50.4 rear is the best ive been able to get. lft front 950lb rt frnt 850lb lr 225 rr 175 added rounds and took out rounds and this is the best I can get and need more rear bad. any suggestions appreciated .
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2013 11:24:30 GMT -6
Only way to add rear % is weight. Cant get there with screw jacks. So with that said, you need to get the weight off the front. My car weighed 3200 with driver and fuel and could get 58% rear, so it can be done. One thing I see is people build a battering ram for a front bumper. This is a race car not a Demo Derby car. My front bumper was one piece of .085 1 3/4 tube bent on the ends. If it got crushed, I replaced it. Every little bit helps. A Delphi 600 steering box weighs 5 lbs less than a stock box. I ran Alum sedge tubes with moog problem solver ends for tie rods, Wilwood GMIII Calipers, Alum motor mount plates, etc, etc. You get the idea. No one piece will get you there, but a lot of small ones will. I didnt do it all in one year, it took several. Build a race car, not a Demo Derby car. Just my .o2
Dave
|
|
|
|
Post by Krooser on Jun 9, 2013 17:59:37 GMT -6
Heavy can still be fast... get your weight %'s right by adding weight. Then work on taking off front end weight. One step at a time.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2013 19:49:10 GMT -6
Heavy can still be fast... get your weight %'s right by adding weight. Then work on taking off front end weight. One step at a time. Yep, I would agree with that. I would rather be heavy but handle good than be light and no handle correctly. Dave |
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 2, 2014 13:36:12 GMT -6
Higher front and rear rate springs for this weight with a 200 split in the front and 25 in the rear will allow the cross and left side to increase left rear and rear percent under throttle by easing the front lift with springs strong enough to help lift and transfer the weight! Adjusting 100-200lbs. more weight on the left ft. wheel allows for compression and ready to lift while keeping the right stronger spring unloaded to compress and unload the left rear and steer and roll!
|
|
|
|
Post by dirtman15 on Mar 29, 2014 7:17:39 GMT -6
I have to agree that a heavy car can be very fast although I do not know a whole lot about setting up metric cars are team also has a Camaro that weighs 3800 and is the fastest car out there every Saturday night. it helps to have a very smooth driver to.
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 29, 2014 13:49:01 GMT -6
Having strong enough springs for the car weight will help transfer in adjustments and on the throttle! A 53 left and 53 cross with the stronger springs on the right ft. and left rear! The left ft. weaker spring being compressed holding 100-200lbs more weight with driver should help in transfer of ft. weight to the right rear weaker spring! 80lbs left rear with the stronger rear spring allows caster to load or unload with a turn of the steering! 125lbs turned right and down to 40lbs turning left by twisting the frame with extreme caster settings of 6 left and 12 right! The weight is now left and rear for a better rear percent that has drivability and right or left traction control with the steering allowing roll out to do its job! Check out my HEI up grade to add traction in and off the corner! Left rear low is the best placement of any extra weight applied with this set-up! Shocks of 5 lt. ft. and 3 rt. ft. with 3s or 4s straight across will allow it to nose on the rt. ft. and transfer the load to the left rear when on the throttle! The car should be leaned left one inch ft. and 1/2' rear! Old school I know but it has worked for 35 years to win!
|
|
|
|
Post by street16 on Mar 31, 2014 13:44:41 GMT -6
Can you get your hands on (ie. borrow) a 1200 lb front spring? If you can, scale the car as it is, put the 1200 lb spring in the right front, and scale it again. I've heard the experts say you have to add/remove weight to get the scale numbers to change, and I've turned the weight jack screws while my truck was on the scales and watched the numbers change. And I've changed springs and watched the numbers change. I don't know why they change, but they do - at least for me. Maybe I'm doing it wrong (wont be the first time). When I was running a heavier car (3500 lbs), I had to run heavier front springs than you are - 1000 lb LF & 1200 RF. Now I'm in a lighter vehicle (2900 lbs) and my front springs are 800 lb LF anf 900 RF - only 50 lbs lighter than what you are running. If you can make the swap, please post the before and after numbers - I'd like to see if it's just me.
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 31, 2014 18:11:26 GMT -6
Gas tank and battery locations in 1/2 inches makes a difference! The first rule of weight is lower, rear, left, or lighten! Transfer is second! The third is add all you need rear, low, and left to be faster! I weigh 247lbs and a pickup that weighs more with less horses you drive down the road cant tell unless stuck and then stand on the back bumper! Percentage of transfer is what helps the most! Stronger rear leafs if chopped in the rear are like traction bars with a 90-10 if legal!
|
|
