|
|
Post by racer77 on Jul 8, 2013 0:58:43 GMT -6
my car is running hotter than I'd like.. what are some ways I could could keep it a little cooler.
|
|
|
|
Post by street16 on Jul 8, 2013 11:30:16 GMT -6
There's a long list of things that can cause overheating - if you have an overheating problem, fix the problem. Start with the cooling system: Good radiator - biggest aluminum racing radiator you can make fit, racing radiator cap (20+ Lbs), good fan - solid fan, not flex-fan, clutch fan, or electric fan, 1 to 1 pulleys - not reduction pulleys, good belts - making contact with at least 90 degrees of each pulley, good water pump, good hoses - no kinks and lower stiff enough not to be sucked flat, Good fan shroud, air dam below radiator. Second, igntion: Timing set to 32 - 36 degrees BTC at full advance, fine tune engine temp with "hotter" or "cooler" spark plugs. Third, Carburation: improper jetting will cause overheating (and other problems). Finally, maintenance: Wash out the radiator fins after every night of racing, and remove and do a thorough cleaning of the radiator every month. You can also add a sprayer system, using a water tank, an electric water pump (from my experience, electric fuel pumps fail quickly when used for water), and some tubing.
|
|
|
|
Post by racer77 on Jul 12, 2013 22:46:48 GMT -6
we put a dual pass radiator in. a 8 blade solid fan. a 22 lbs radiator cap. a custom fan shroud. oversized stif radiator hoses. and after each race we pull the car in the shop and clean it bumper to bumper.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2013 7:21:37 GMT -6
1 to 1 pulleys is the big thing most people miss. No restrictors. You fan blades should be half in and half out of the shroud for max efficiency.
Dave
|
|
|
|
Post by leaf4life on Jul 14, 2013 1:55:43 GMT -6
one thing i have done that works good for cleaning out radiators is soaking them in a kiddie pool overnight, letting the dirt fall to the bottom of the pool, pull the rad. out and clean out pool, fill and repeat till its clean.
|
|
|
|
Post by dirttrack57 on Jul 29, 2013 11:18:25 GMT -6
how close should the fan shroud be to the edge of the fan.
|
|
|
|
Post by dirttrack57 on Jul 29, 2013 11:19:24 GMT -6
my tamp seem to creep up toward the end of the race 12-15 laps.
|
|
|
|
Post by leaf4life on Jul 30, 2013 23:31:23 GMT -6
it would depend on how much you motor moves, if the motor mounts are solid then an inch or two all the way around the fan. i run urathane mounts and the motor moves not much and i have about 1 1/2 in around fan, run about 220 after main in 90-105 ambient temp. just an advisement, optimum temp is about 210-220, 240 and up is bad, you'll feel the enging start to tighten up and may blow head gasket or worse.
|
|
|
|
Post by dirttrack57 on Jul 31, 2013 6:35:08 GMT -6
car has solid motor mounts. my driver got spun on the 1st lap and had to restart last, came back to battle for 4th , right there the leaders in a group. but pulled off with 2 laps to go at 230*.
going to make a fan shroud from from a bottom of a plastic barrel (drain pan).
and seal up the front of the radiator , so air can't go around instead of though it.
|
|
|
|
Post by leaf4life on Jul 31, 2013 21:43:33 GMT -6
old gm 4 blade fans work really good, light, ect. is your shaker screen clogged w/ mud at the end of heat? run a nose cone? check your plugs and see if they show a lean condition? white on the electrode is a lean condition, your looking for more of a light brown/ chocolate color. one thing i have had happen was i ran my outer shaker screen too close to the rad. and it got clogged quickly and didnt cool well. so i "acordian" it and folded it outward, worked great, i do not use a nose cone.
|
|
