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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2013 19:25:39 GMT -6
Im a big fan of stagger. I ran 440 LBS of bite at all times and the only adjustments I would make from tackey to slick was Stagger and wheel offsets. The Big Bite setups really need the stagger to roll the center of the corner. I was running 4" of stagger on a tackey track and 1.5 to 2" on the slick. Wheel offsets will loosen the setup but wont help roll the center of the corner. I have no experience with the G60, so they only come in one size? not 26.5 and 27.5 like the hoosiers?
Dave
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side bite
Dec 6, 2013 21:10:49 GMT -6
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Post by zerot on Dec 6, 2013 21:10:49 GMT -6
They have shorts and talls but all end up being the same. If you found a tire a 1 1/2 bigger you are special.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2013 1:23:22 GMT -6
Have you ever put 60lbs of air in one and layed it on an asphalt driveway in the hot sun for a few hours? Im sure it will grow several inches. The trick is to keep all the air in the tire and right before you go on the track, let the air down to its normal pressure. When you come off the track put the 60 lbs back in until you need that tire again. You can also shrink a tire a fair amount. Run your left rear at race pressure, get it hot racing and when you come in let all the air out of it until next race. As it cools with no pressure, it will shrink. Next race air up to race pressure and re check stagger size. I have seen tires shrink well over an inch doing this.
Dave
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side bite
Dec 7, 2013 13:05:06 GMT -6
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Post by zerot on Dec 7, 2013 13:05:06 GMT -6
When trying to figure out the bind in the rear end I could only get in to move up and down with no side to side. I took off one of the uppers and it freed it up some but not a lot. How do I get the side to side out of it. I think the 5 hole lower brackets are made to tight. Probably put the porta power in there and spread out out some right?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2013 18:15:38 GMT -6
What type of bushings do you have? The rear shouldn't move side to side, but it should move freely, one side up and other down which will kinda make a figure eight at the axle flange. If your mount brackets aren't in perfect alignment, things are going to bind. What ever it takes to straighten them, do it. I will be very obvious when its bind free.
Dave
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side bite
Dec 14, 2013 21:21:02 GMT -6
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Post by zerot on Dec 14, 2013 21:21:02 GMT -6
I have oem replacements on uppers. And those speedway twist on lr lower oem rr lower.
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Post by vrtfarms on Dec 15, 2013 19:14:42 GMT -6
Most people I know use Moog K-6178. Say they have had problems with other brands of O.E.M. replacements. A friend runs spherical bushings ( has bearing like rod ends ) and likes them. The comment above about getting stagger out of G-60s works very good. Mount them,let air out,put 15# in. Measure. Let air out of short ones until you race them. Then follow the rest of his directions for at least 3 heat cycles. My luck usually is ending up with the short ones on the beadlocks, thus extra dismounts and mounts. L.O.L. also I find many times the socalled shorts end up being taller then the socalled talls. Wheel spacers are a good tuning tool for changing track conditions. I cut the centers out of unrepairable wheels and trim them down. Stack them up to get thickness you want.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2013 18:28:54 GMT -6
I have oem replacements on uppers. And those speedway twist on lr lower oem rr lower. Do your rules allow the mono ball bushings? If so, there is no better way to go for getting the rear free. I ran them in the lowers and the forward side of the uppers. I ran the Medieval Chassis "pull" bushings on the aft side of the uppers to provide cushion under acceleration. Dave
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side bite
Dec 16, 2013 20:08:35 GMT -6
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Post by zerot on Dec 16, 2013 20:08:35 GMT -6
No we can't run mono balls.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 28, 2014 18:20:15 GMT -6
Total weight should set spring packages as well as percentages ft. to rear! I like the most front weight on left to compress the weaker spring and allow for compression of stronger rt. ft. with a straight 3 on right and 5 on the left! This allows it to unload left rear and start steering just lifting the gas while planting the rt. rear on lifting the throttle as weight travels from rt. front to left front to the right rear to hold it driving in! 3s or 4s straight across the rear works for us! The same for picking up the throttle, plants lt. rear and slows steer coming off. Rear steer angles greater on right than left to straighten car off the corner with car leaned left one inch front and 1/2" in the rear to ease rebound to ride heights! Low idle speeds with a lot of gear can break one loose also! They all can be a handful at times! 2850lbs 600-800 and 800-1000 front and 200-175 and 225-200 is close depending on rear percent.
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Post by orm33 on Mar 5, 2014 19:06:02 GMT -6
When I made the switch from leaf's to coil's a couple seasons back I was lucky enough to run across Dave from the 96m.I have went back and read a ton of his posts on 4M and found that he had already been there and done that on most of my issues.I have always run Bilstien and found a lot more consistency since switching to Eibach.I like to run Nylocks on my rear control arms ,I had a new crew guy who thought everything had to be SUPER tight.Made for a long night figuring that out lol!My fault for not giving proper instructions,a check list with a process tree took care of that issue.I have success with the soft rf spring set up .I couldn't get any side bite on exit with a great turn in and middle.It would just jump out on mid exit regardless of throttle position.I'm a big guy,350,now 320 and losing. I came to the conclusion that I wasn't transferring to the right rear enough.My ls % was high and my lf was always a minimum of 150#s heavy vs rf.I have since moved my battery and hung 80#s of lead over my rr up high and moved all other ballast to the middle over the rearend up high.125 pounds of left rear with me in the car.What a difference !Have had to stiffen the rr spring to stop the bottoming out of the frame on the axle tube and have found that we have to remove weight over the rr to compensate for track conditions. It hooks so hard now it picks the lf middle out and we subscribe to the four wheels are faster than three theory,just remove weight to decrease wheelie.Rf 950-lf 1050-lr 225-rr 200 Just tossing it out there so the next BIG guy doesn't have to spend the $ we have had to figure it out.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 5, 2014 21:28:51 GMT -6
Try jacking in 100-200 pounds ( With driver ) on the left ft to unload rt ft to allow nosing on the right first (With softer shock than left side shock by at least by 2 split)! Holding right higher and help it roll up as this spring is already loaded, it helps by holding left side high as you lift the throttle! In you go as the left rear has lifted because your cross has switched and allowed pivot down in the front and up in the rear creating steer! Just by lifting!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 16, 2014 7:39:48 GMT -6
Rubber link bushings are like little torsion springs to help center your car back and steady sudden movements! I try to keep mine tight as not to wear the holes and change setups! I have never drilled a bushing to get steer either as to other ills! It takes little steer to get around the track at speed! Being closed to start with helps straighten getting off! Steering open only to get in and through needs 1/8-3/8" open, tops keeping the car straight as not to slide or get sideways, slowing you down! The string or rail affect if you will is faster if you can ever get there! Little roll needed, it is the transfer on the springs and frame twist to move the weight from rt. ft. to left ft. threw the now reversed cross to the rt. rear to gain rt. percentage! When lifting going in, the rt. ft. weight goes way up and is transferred to plant right side before even turning the car to roll! Providing rt. spring is 100-200lbs stronger and lt. is pre preloaded! All wheel traction while in the turn is by no means equal weight but a close changeable balance with steering twisting the frame as to control by the driver!
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