side bite

What are your wheel offsets? Need the front as wide as you can get, like 2" offsets and maybe add 1" spacer on the RF, and the Right rear needs to be sucked in as far as you can get it. The RR tire can be a fingers width off the frame rail and not rub because as the car turns left the bottom of the tire bulls inward not the top. It works the other way on the Left rear. The more bite you run the more stagger you will need. As the Bite goes up, the car should be loose off throttle as you lift for entry. The Added Stagger will keep it rolling through the center and the wheel offset will give you the sidebite you need to keep the speed up. All the weight needs to be as high as you can get it. Fuel cell above frame rails, all lead up high etc, etc. All will aide side bite and help keep the speed up in the corner, but it all has to work together. The added sidebite alone wont help if you dont have enough stagger to keep it all rolling.

Dave

Dave.

1 inch wheel spacer on rf with 2 offs all the way around except rr 3 off. Lead is high left to middle left about 1 foot behind axle. Fuel cell is high and so is battery. With 2 1/2 inches of stagger in front. When I opened up the stagger for the feature it felt like I lost drive up off the corner. Shocks lf 40-40 rf 60-40 lr 80-20 gas rr 40-40. Got about 1/2 of lead in the rear end. Big 3/8 track lakeside speedway. When I drove this setup I had a run of 5 or 6 top threes in a row. But the car was ridicules through the center and coming up off.

I always liked a 3" Offset on the LR, just felt like we could get back to the gas quicker with the LR tucked in close. If you have room I would get a 4 offset for the RR when it slicks off. If you have to add a 1/2 spacer for clearance, still better than the 3" in the slick.

Dave

IMO, your wheel weights are textbook.

I would be suspicious that your springs actually rate what they say. Sounds just like you've got a weak RF spring.

Next thing I would ask about (if I was in charge of your car setup) would be caster/camber and ride heights.

This is a heavy night. Start outside row 2 blue and yellow 0t car. You can see what I'm talking about towards the end of the video. Start around 7:30 mark.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZaMGwQyd0s&feature=youtube_gdata_player

One thing I notice in the video is the car stays very flat. It looks good but you need to get it rolling over to aide the side bite. I have found one of the biggest problems with the metric is the rear end in a bind that keeps it from rolling over. Best way to check is to get the car on jack stands, let the rear suspension hang down. Remove the wheels, shocks and springs. With a guy on each side of the rear, grab the axles and try to move the rear up and down in a figure eight, one side up, other down. If it doesnt flop around easily while making the figure eight motion, something is binding and limiting its motion. Fix that and things will get much better. If you run solid type bushings (not mono balls)common problem is to tight on the mount bolts. Leave them loose and drill the nuts so you can put a cotter pin through to secure them. very easy to over tighten these bolts and create a bind. As for the bouncing. If you arent on Bielstien shocks, you should be. worth every cent. And if you are, send them out to get checked. I like Eibach springs. If you went to 1000 RF and 850 LF and re scaled, keeping your percentages the same and your front weight split left to right the same, the car would drive like you are used to but have more roll and aide your side bite. Just some things to think about.

Dave

Afco springs are the most inconsistent pieces of crap I have ever seen, and 3 yrs old? well......... Replace the front springs with eibach, at the very least the car will be more predictable. Keeping the rear free is so important. Those upper mounts bend a little and it screws up everything.

Dave