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Post by floppyfoot on Jan 11, 2014 19:55:37 GMT -6
Running a metric chassis, have to use stock lower A arms on front, using aftermarket tublar uppers. Have adjustable upper arm mounts. Just what does raising or lowering the height of the upper arms do? I think it effects theroll center but how? I want to move the roll center to the left side some. Both LF and RF are mounted in the middle position and there are either 8 or 9 positions.
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Post by street16 on Jan 13, 2014 11:20:58 GMT -6
I can't visualize your adjustable mounting setup. But, lowering the mount side of the upper control arm will increase camber gain but I don't know what it'll do to your roll center.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 21:11:32 GMT -6
First you would have to map out your RC now to figure out where it is before you try moving anything. But to answer your question, If your lower A arms are parallel to the ground and your uppers are parallel to the ground, your RC will be very low, even below the ground if you map it out. Increasing the angle of the uppers will raise the RC . Asphalt runs low front RC but dirt does not. If you only increased the angle in the upper RF A arm and nothing else changed, your RC would move up and to the right. To what degree? You would have to map it out to see. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Worrying about where your static front RC is at is a waist of time if you ask me. You dont race at static settings, as soon as the suspension moves so does your RC, and since you are turning left and your RF upper arm angle is increasing under compression, your RC is moving to the RT anyway. You should be more concerned with RF camber gain. It has way more effect on things than your RC.
Dave
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Post by floppyfoot on Jan 14, 2014 14:21:30 GMT -6
The car does not have much suspension travel on the RF. There is about 5 1/2" at the center of the hub where the dust cap is located. The 5 1/2" of travel is from stop to stop without the spring in the car. Just trying to get more roll over to the RF.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2014 21:09:37 GMT -6
You need to provide 3 1/2 in of clearance for up travel from static ride height. So whatever you have to do, notch the the frame up some where the lower arm hits,or hammer a dent in the arm to get more clearance, etc. etc.
Dave
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 5, 2014 20:54:39 GMT -6
If your lt spring is holding the weight of the car up and a stronger rt is not compressed it should nose without hitting if ride heights are correct as a softer rt shock and stiffer lt will nose under drag as you lift with a stronger left rear of 25 if rates are matched per car weight as well as to presents. The stronger left loaded will raise the left nosing harder while the already loaded left front has no choice but to increase cross and send the weight to the rt rear planting right side bite just by lifting! How quickly this happens is controlled by shock rates. Now you are nosed, steering in the rear and running on right rear as your cross!It has switched but with out loosing left rear pounds but gaining right transferred from left ft to the cross as your lt rear spring was compressed and car is lifted, the spring should have enough movement as not to loose its poundage! Too high of rates or too soft or un matched with the front will not allow this to happen with good results! Front and rear as to total and transfer weight by weight placement is key! A gas tank or battery as well as added weight will change for the worse or cure problems as you well know! Now you may drive in hard as you wish and turn on a dime!
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