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Post by shaw18 on Mar 10, 2014 20:32:18 GMT -6
I am setting up a bomber for a friend of mine and don't know where to begin he is using a 1977 Pontiac lemans car could really use some help on this...
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 10, 2014 22:09:02 GMT -6
We have built a few and new young drivers were winners! 1st Lean it to the left one inch on side frame behind ft wheels and a 1/2 in the rear! Roll out ft 1-2 inches and rear 2-3 if rules allow! Raise rear as to rear steer and measure by bolts of lower rear links to be higher in front by 1/4-1/2 left and 3/4 -1 1/4 on the right! Shim ft upper ball joints as far back on both sides as you can for caster. Longer rear bolts and locking nuts are needed for 1" plus shims( Large nuts or washers are best as not to fall out)! Less shims on the left to get camber, neg. 1-2 and pos 3-4 on the rt. Ft bolts with as little washer-shims as possible,(Angle grinding nuts to fit angles is best) Ride heights by looking at the tie rods, left running up to the wheel enough to see and rt side should be down hill to the wheel twice as much or more as to level out when rolled over in the turn! Toe out 1/2-3/4 inch! ( this goes away when on the throttle) Spring rates if changed are by weight of ft to rear weights and just guessing a 1000 rt ft, 800 lt with 225 left and 200 rt. for lightened car! Total weight if completely stock may need 100 pluss ft and 25 more rear as ride heights come into play. Driver weight and no passenger does need to be considered! A 200S_A shocks with right front soft and left mid-range with rear both mid or stock! Adjust-able will let you tune some on set-up as needed! Rear roll out as well as ft will help set up to tighten or loosen car. most effective on left ft! A shorter tire tightens and a taller loosens! Swapping ft sides ok, rear best not unless with the understanding of getting loose fas and catching to tighten off the corner when on the gas when sideways but not if you don't have too because of the right push if not sideways! We have ran reverse stager on the rear of 3-4 inches to win on dry-slick but not if tacky! I stock springs are used, cut a 1/2-1 round off the left if needed for ride heights! The variation between the lt and rt ft and rear is most important as to ride heights with no jack bolts! Rear trailing arms measurements are the key to rear steer as not to push and the extra caster will save a spin by tightening by a simple right turn and left to loosen giving the driver the most control of the car possible! If scaling you will want 100-200 lbs more on lt ft than on the right with driver and 60-80 left rear ( this sets preloads on the spring to react and transfer weight to keep all four wheels well planted), but don't sweat it as it doesn't matter up to test runs and roll out changes to raise or lower each corner in both handling and lt rear weight hooking! Good luck with your venture!
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Post by moldy on Apr 23, 2014 21:12:24 GMT -6
Get an angle finder. Low banking 4* negative camber on the right side, roughly 1-1/2 to 2* left positive camber. High banking 3-1/2* negative camber,right side. 1-1/2* positive camber left side. Caster is to the drivers liking. 4-7* positive caster righ side. 0 - 2 degrees negative caster. Caster jacks weight in the left rear and pulls the car into the corner. Springs, 900-1000 pound right, left side 700 - 900 pounds left. Watch the car, bottoms out add more spring, should be about 3-1/2 inches at ball joint. Pushes too much going in take spring out. rear? 200-250 left rear, 165-225 right rear. You have to play with the springs, there's no set spring rate for either end. If you cant scale you car? Put a socket on a floor jack and jack up the rear, RIGHT side should come up first. Loose add cross, tight take cross out. Should try 1 foot to start. Add shims to left spring.
Sorry late to the post, use your head, hope this helps.
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