|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 6, 2014 9:56:06 GMT -6
Another floating line across the roll center to think about! While one does affect the other as the weight transfers front to rear when on or off the throttle, it can happen quicker with spring compressions heights being ready to help the transfer on or off of that corner and rates of shocks and springs comes into question as per axle weight! Playing with a 4 way lug wrench and a ball for a few minutes may help as a hands on tool to help understand what does happen and what you wish to happen! Turn the cross to a X position and see the rectangle box out line of the corners! Gas it and then hit the brakes on 3 or 4 wheel brakes to get a feel of the power of both! Add torque of the engine twist and the pull of the gear drag when lifting the throttle going straight and then change idle rpms to control drag when lifting! After a few tries add your brakes to the mix! Front, rear, 3 then 4, then a happy mix of both 3 and 4 wheel to see the advantages of 4 on dry slick tracks as to 3 to help loosen the same set-up on a tacky track! NOW What happens first and why? How fast do you want it to happen? What springs have to be preloaded to help this happen? Which ones have to be ready to accept a load? If you are on the trail of this FOX you can see the white tip of his tail flopping in the breeze and he isn't that far ahead that you can't catch up with him soon! The tail and moment center are moving constantly as is the roll center and your cross as you should have noticed by now! A rt. ft. dip onto a unloaded stronger spring and softer shock with a ft. lt. weaker spring and stiffer shock already compressed is going to switch your cross from rt.ft. and lt. rr.! Now it is a reversed side of the x to hike the left rear by moving the pivot point from one side to the other ( a close point of the center of both pivots ) , putting more weight on the lt. ft. and rt. rr. to plant the right rear with side bite to hold when you decide to turn! A guess of little less than left rear that should have been high enough to create a left drag to turn you on a dime if and when you wish to! The Fox does have a big bushy tail, but the better to see him with and that makes roll and moment centers less of a critter to understand. Both are rolling pivots of front to rear and side to side as well as across the crosses of each other! Its more like a car on a large ball! How big is the ball? Just high enough to give ride heights to the car and allow free movement! A 25lb. stronger left rear spring is enough if they are leaf or coil when sitting atop the rear-end! Straight valve shocks of are used on all corners with the same 2 across the rear! (in and out needs it this way to react promptly) A 2 point split up front on the shocks and 100-200 in the springs! Two 4s rear and a 5 lt. ft. and 3 rt. ! Watch the cross and see why I do it this way!Then a multitude of negative caster -6lt.--12 rt. can do the rest with ease! This fox may seem gray but the white tip says he is a red! Happy hunting the moving critters of moment and roll centers! Its just a part of nature to be tamed and I hope this helped in some way!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 20, 2014 13:56:08 GMT -6
Extra caster has the ability to change all setting with the turning of the steering wheel to flipflop if you want to aid in moving setting to ease roll and rebound by it twisting the frame more! Putting your chassis in your control changing pounds, steer rates, and traction if spring rates, locations and poundage of preloads are correct! Even the cross and moment center swings into a turn either direction on a dime mode with added caster! ( Upper ball joints to the rear on both sides )
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 5, 2014 8:49:32 GMT -6
What determines a good adjustment? For me it is the fact that it puts all factors in a broader range of working order without compromising others! YEP! Hard for me to do things differently when winning but the understanding of need of improvement is always there! A pound of air has to many factors to take a chance on getting out of some working range! Each has its place and should be considered in the mix! Changing the crosses and timing with air can be as simple as not using the same gauge or pressure each time! A mind blowing fact to those willing to change any part to be faster at the track! Once seeing an improvement made and why it helped then and not later, it wasn't too hard to rule it out by getting to the root of why it helped! Just go with logic and back up all the way through to the bare frame! If a country boy like me can do it most should find this helpful! Classify each category as leverage, pounds, springs, shocks and movement ect... Make some sheets in good, bad, more, less, yes or no and maybe even a never check point! You don't have to run it on your car but in your head as the wants and needs of a chassis from the start of the build! Variations needed, where to let it move on its own as it reacts to the track, brakes or throttle as well as steer and caster used! If having trouble flowing the path just break it down on a new sheet and ask all you need to get it figured out before the hot lap that gives false responses to actual needs once Mother Nature gets involved!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 5, 2014 9:20:45 GMT -6
When I speak of Mother Nature it is the reference to human logic to the simplicity of motion factors being true to what is happening! From how slick the track is to the factors of roll from speed, to name a few that are constant in principle and those always changing uncontrollably! I try to put to good use any help she offers before offering resistance that slows any process! This free power is the wind in my sail and the flow to hold the corners at high speeds! Not just in chassis design but the engines horses heading down wind as well! Ever block and chain your car in power or corner mode and try pushing it to check for binding? does it roll left easily or too hard! Theory is best used in a free chassis as with each adjustment! Just make it a practice of thought rather than change! Most outer things points to the inner core of a set-up! Springs have to match with weights, variations make them play well together and so on before the light weight gets there!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 12, 2014 16:22:20 GMT -6
Holding your left rear with cross weight without the usage of rear weight moves the moment center forward and changes its timing to a slower response with the right front being at a higher point of preload to hold the cross and left rear in tact! Use of the left rear wheel as the main constant point of a loaded pivot rather than the main point of change in pounds! Chassis movement allows the right front more travel to transfer pounds to plant the right rear in the nosing process! I have found this to be more traction and drivability than lifting the left side front or rear to add pounds to the right side with less left rear loss! With the pivot farther back it quickens response with the lead giving the balanced edge to transfer to the front by unloading the ft. springs or rear rocking back easier to add rear percent for quick traction! It tends to move the right front and not the left rear! The cross does switch up during this process to plant the right rear or at least change to a closer balance of four wheel preloaded traction ft. and rear while in the turn!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 13, 2014 8:45:24 GMT -6
While timing is best left to the shocks, the softness of your preloads has quite a lot to do with promptness and travel limits! Looking at the two lines in the X going to each corner of your chassis with a + on top with matching centers you may see the confusion if both are not kept centered with each other! However moving both centers and there pivots to the left rear wheel area my show you how placing the weight balance there leaves more constant weight of the car there! You may also see the increase that is moved to the right rear by this offset of centers! You may also see the multiplied effects of any lead placed low, left, and rear with this done to have more traction by having more left and right rear weight! It doesn't have to roll if already preloaded by the rest of the car to have more traction even when not in the turn! This leaves you with two things, steady cross weights and a pivot on the left rear wheel with more of the weight already there! You move weight left and rear so why stop at that when there is more ways of down force than by up-force on a lightened corner by roll factors! My left rear is the center pivot! All else moves from this point of leverage! There is no contest with getting more right rear weight transferred by moving your centers with a little lead or ink as the case may be! MAP IT OUT-- and see what you think!!! Let me know what you find or if help is needed in getting it mapped correctly!
|
|
