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Post by usra07x on Apr 21, 2014 16:01:25 GMT -6
Hi guys I got a dw8 that I'm going to start converting to bmod it 4link now. Here is the deal. On the RR lower mounts there is a black extention that makes it so you can use shorter bars on the RR lower side. Do I remove this for 3 link or leave it. Also anybody have an idea what length bars I should use? DW says 20" but it has a 16 on the RR now with that extention.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 21, 2014 19:59:26 GMT -6
A friend of our ran a Ford modified that handled great! One night I took a peak at his bars as they seem to be perfected! They started next to his seat! Longer bars if not hiking is fine! They shortened them for a quicker transition time and to control lift when hiking up down to 6 inches and it can't go far before locking! Shorter steers faster as the angle changes quickly! Longer is less radical! Right and left variations of length can get tricky and more to deal with but shorter left hooks you right up even when not hiking! Less angle needed on short bars! 4 degrees left and 6 right works for us when they are the same length! We are leaned left and sometimes in the same holes! When it rolls they even out the traction push upwards! I never let the left get ahead of the right as it holds steer off the corner! Two wheels pulling with roll out working to get off straighter while balanced on all fours instead of hiking!
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Post by duckhnter83 on Apr 22, 2014 6:08:01 GMT -6
I believe most sanctions have a 72" minimum from the motor plate so start there square the rear. On the right take the plug/ spacer out of it and move it to the left side as long as it doesn't make the bar shorter than the minimum by your sanctioning body. You will want the left bar shorter if anything. You don't have to run it in either side but if you do it will make that side react faster. If on the left side it helps get it up onto the bar faster. This is how my DW is setup I believe a rough guess on lengths without my book in front of me is 16 on left and 20 on right.
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