RR chain and spring location

On top is easier to tune! While in or out of the throttle and twist or lean and timing gets to be factors too in position with extreme j-bar angles changing spring effects! Just finding a steady spot is hard enough! Front mounting requires stronger and rear can unload right but increase or decrease left poundage with throttle movement! Even on top, off-sets on rims can throw in a few more factors to deal with! I try to pick non moving in all respects as to the 20 or more things I can't control or adjust in effects that any movement has elsewhere unless all positive to total control of a setup! The only chain I ever ran was on top a homemade trio single link to the left rear using a fashioned bolt-on upper bird cage to lift the lower bar at the car's bar mounting position! A spring pull bar allowed movement to hook left rear and the chain allowed it to roll in but tightened on throttle response as the spring pull bar allowed twist of the rear-end! It didn't pull the left ft. or rear up but rather loaded the left rear harder as it looked as if the tire went flat from the weight on demand! It did very well as added traction on three links goes on slick tracks! It allowed added traction without other changes to a other wise well handling set up on three links to out run the four bars in our modified class! A old school bolt on without scratching any new paint on our brand new chassis! From tenth place to first in a old school bolt on winning 3 of 5 with a 2nd and a 3rd! It should be legal on all three link classes! Fully adjustable with driver in place to set preload with turnbuckle in the chain! No short bars needed or hiking to hook all you want without steer or transitions to deal with or wait on it to happen! Every thing is still floating and no stops in this process! More details if you need them!

Ok! I took 2 flat 1/4 plates and cut out a bird cage that fit around the axle tube with a out cut from the center that allowed it to slide over the axle tube ,turn and lock ft. to rear! It bolted to the lower bar bracket with a longer bolt! The top side was taller with more holes for adjustments! I took a bar and cut out the middle and welded a chain in the middle! Bolted it up with a longer bolt where the lower left bar was connected to the chassis on the same location! With driver in place a slight preload was set! It locked the trio to lift the car on acceleration at that heavier point, yet still allowed the car to roll over in the turn when off the throttle! The spring pull bar allowed it to tighten back when rolled with its biscuit and spring movement in twist of the differential! It can be attached to the lower bar at the front if rules allow or just weld it to the lower bar near to the ft.!

Yes but the bracket had the hole cut out in a down and out as to slide on turn and lock to the housing tight ft. to rear fit! More of a large center for strength in the bracket! The chain locks on lift, lifting and unlocks to roll by chain movement! About 4 degrees on the lower bar and 6 right steers plenty and no transitions or steer added! Pan-hard instead of j-bar or very low angle usage to free up the cars moment and cross! With LLR weight the car doesn't lift, the weight goes directly to the tire! The cut out goes down the bracket and swings out to the rear! No moving any mounts or bars locations just makes a triangle of what's there with a flexible top link! The rear has to twist a little to make this work! Non floating of coarse at cage! Welding recommended for added strength in twist if not sure of lower mount holding! Spring mounts on some cars line up and brackets have to change shape! The theory is good in hooking with drivability with LLR non hiking set-ups! It drives the tire in the ground instead of lifting the chassis changing all you have set and working good! A lifting from a lower (harder to roll or lift heavier point ) negative angle of the chain puts more to the wheel than pushing upwards with a positive closing angle that just gains leverage and lessens the weight location to the point of steer change at the tire! Short bars need not apply! Same theory but more bite and less steer to deal with!