Would a stock 350 stay together at 6800 rpms

Ease of flow by fuel and timing in cams, intakes, exhaust and burn timing takes the bind off and the power on!!! Just like in set-ups, one wrong piece in the combination and muck is all you get! Tune goes deeper from exhaust to the air going in which is not a constant and must be addressed at all times to make the most of things! The answer is a most definite yes!!! Ran one 3 years at 7500 2 nights a weak to win 60+ races and every big race hands down! But was faster at 6700 with gear another 2 years before stupidity over came reason blowing 3 in a row in less than 20 laps total! The culprit was vacuum when lifting! Keep it 2000 or better rpms with holes drilled in the butterflies as not to close it off too much and cause reversion to lean and detonate with higher compression or stretching things to a breaking point with vacuum when lifting! A quick look at any blown engine should tell me the cause and there are many! Poor design is most always the case! Stock pans and pumps are fine too! Larger exhaust valves on most any head is improvement but flow is not in the slowing of velocity by bigger going in but the how to in speeding it along the narrowed path one molecule at a time! Good bearings is a plus and the pick-up must be lowered! Oil restrictors to keep more of the 6 quarts now there with one pumped upstairs holes 5 cool quarts down stairs not robing horses by being pumped and slung over and over heating it up with spew from un-needed PSI! A good cam and valve springs is the first step and the largest in getting horses, RPMS, and longevity! All else is gravy but too much icing on the cake is just for show and can change the taste of any bread underneath in dollars and sense!!! How much did your last blown engine cost! 800 used to cover a mistake but the last we blew cost about 2750! No guaranties is life just cost of not knowing!!! Do you run what you can afford or afford the cost of what you run? In both you need to know a few things more to win in most cases! Give your pit crew the credit for keeping it working or run middle of the track with safe racing engines! If your engine builder is not standing there tuning at the track but found next to his DYNO you may be missing something like a few horses or a 100 more foot pounds of torque!!! Too much said as usual but if still wining don't sweat it!

.006 piston clearance is a must with stock pistons, cast rings and rounding off bottom bevel on the skirts to leave a film of oil to hold them centered to prevent heat transfer and run cooler! A free floating doesn't hurt either of the wrist pins! A NF crank is better than steel stock if no hole in the front rod local! Stock clearances on the crank of .001 rods and .002 mains is fine! It will have more later, I promise !