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Post by vrtfarms on Sept 17, 2014 21:36:55 GMT -6
3 link spring in front L.R. ----? about swedge tube that runs from top of floater to frame. Angle up or down from floater to frame?? What length?? Straight forward or slight angle like lower bar?? Wanting it to work correctly in conjunction with lower bar when hiking ect. Thanks= VintageMod
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 18, 2014 12:59:00 GMT -6
I've spent most of my years trying to control left rear as to not loosing or gaining spring poundage by hike or j-bar pinning the left side! Once away from the norm of others it was no problem to improve chassis functions to win! It's easier to go left with right drive helping the left and roll out working! If you need looser going in it may help in steer if angled up a bit! Closing the rear would be a start and steering the right side and leave the left hooked up all the time! Give me all your info in messaging and I will try to explain why I do it that way!
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Post by phantom309 on Sept 18, 2014 21:16:51 GMT -6
At ride height you want floater rod hole at 12 oclock which puts caliper at 3 oclock. use a 5 hole mount on frame so center hole keeps bar level. Try for 18" bar length. I usually run mine flat or 5*. Less angle loosens entry, more should tighten. Think about something to keep it from walking side to side on axle tube. Keep it greased good. Works best for me when trailbraking. Some drivers like it, some don't. Phantom309 B.T.W.- My daughter really likes your car as she is a vintage Volkswagon NERD! L.O.L. Shes guessing Type 4 Variant Wagon ??
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Post by confused on Sept 19, 2014 13:09:08 GMT -6
You never want the top hole of the brake floater at twelve o'clock. This will cause it to over index as the chassis raises up. Over indexing causes binding and broken parts.
The bar should run up to the chassis mounts.
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Post by vrtfarms on Sept 21, 2014 20:24:53 GMT -6
Thanks for replys. I think I'm on the right track now. I can see the over indexing issue causing problems. I'll put top mount somewhere around 1oclock or so and see what it looks like at full drop.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Sept 22, 2014 6:17:07 GMT -6
Be sure to factor in the rear-end's forward movement, roll and hike change to angle by jacking it up too! The less chassis movement the better off you are leaving the weight on the spring, thus the tire to the track! Changing pounds at the wheel is one thing but raising the left rear of the chassis is another! You may have noticed, I am against both! Pulling the right side down braking sounds more reasonable to me! DID YOU SAY DROP??? Spring forward will require less pull bar movement to hold pinion angle and steer bar angles in thrust to hook the left but its the right side that screams for attention! You have Mother Nature's help if working on the right side making it easier to deal with change while holding on to a pre-set left rear! Control of traction on the right while having it already controlled on the left is how we won so much! Just food for thought! Good luck on your changes!
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