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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 21, 2014 9:21:10 GMT -6
While I prefer to roll the left front with tension to hold the right rear traction in place while others prefer to lean, tilt and pivot to get the weight there! A added cross weight and softer by 50-75 right rear spring rate can get you there! An extreme j-bar angle to hike the left side frame during roll due to side thrust of the rear end and the sudden upward jolt of energy provided by the pinion mounted bracket along with over zealous left side steering bar angles can push the car upwards completely off the spring! This while providing even more cross and steer some-times even to the point of robbing the right rear of traction placing all the weight on the left drive wheel while wanting to go left! A three wheel system is needed to balance the weight then to have a balanced traction between the rear wheels! Achieving a good rear balance of power in drive thrust and pounds with all the variables happening during this process of power and weight transfer along with tracking and bump-steer issues is by far a matter for thought to achieve the same just by lifting the throttle! If a tire was mint to be to toted, I would assume it to be used as a spare and mounted on the rear for added traction instead of added loss of rear percentage while trying to get right rear traction! It has been a long 35 years of getting it correct and to lift the left front wheel was part of it as well as hiking the left to do so! This was just a touch away from holding left rear weight constant and having a more balanced rear traction on the right by thrust, steer and transfer for us to win! The objective is the same but the input is yours!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 10, 2014 8:36:36 GMT -6
I would rather it roll and stay planted for better steering and give the spring tension that gives more right rear traction than take away rear percent by adding more left front weight to deal with by other means just to look cool! When passing cars on the out side while they try to get it up and pointed in the right direction you will only then see the merit in my post! If wanting your left front in the air in most any class the added cross and split of a weaker right rear spring will get you there! It may even make your car faster than before but the goal is still the same! That is to plant the right rear to get traction in and off the corners! It is the drivability that makes it better all the way around the track to be winning set-up! Is or does traffic or loosing your line or timing the corner have any affect on your chances of winning? If so, you may consider why and ask the needs there of like I did to come about the same conclusions of a better way to load the right rear with out loosing the left rear at any cost! If you need more left rear, try putting it there to start with and not loosing it but making the right side match it's pounds by other means than shifting off of the left side! Any one seeing a point too this YET???
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 10, 2014 9:30:07 GMT -6
The left wheel up is only as the right rear frame goes down loosing the pounds of thrust angle drive and the best recovery advantage I have found in getting off the corner straight by stopping the rear steering process while adding traction on the right rear to exit while rolled! This by only a 2 degree advantage in steering bar angles and 25 pounds weaker on the right and no open rear needed to get in the corner! No added roll out to help recovery or to slow you in the straights! No lines to hold to while passing any time, any where you please by improved handling! The higher split in the front and less in the rear holds the cross weight and thus left rear in tact even when nosed or rolled! Never over balanced in the turn keeps the quickness of steer reactions at the extreme casters mercies of control by the drivers hand in frame twist in either direction from a balanced point with ease even when rolled! Its always in the range of driver control by correct preloads to start with! Rolled is only closer to the center of the drivers choice of steer as things evens more to mid ranges of travel! It can flip or flop witch ever way the driver chooses and still stay hooked and with in range of steering control on all four wheels! I never found this as hard to make work as rocking over! That is why all my lead is low, left, and as rear as it can be mounted and 2 inch off-set is used on the right rear! I have no need to make it roll to plant the right rear to achieve hold and steer! It happens naturally! No more than a half inch roll out needed if all is working for the good steer within the chassis! You may want to re-read a few post to get it all straight for the next race!--- I'm here if you need help learning or directions in choices without the effort of the education!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 12, 2014 8:53:40 GMT -6
What if I hadn't took all those music and art classes to be able to hear tune in an engine or be able to see degrees buy using perspectives to do so? What if I had no interest in geometry, algebra or science while in school? What if I hadn't seen a dirt car as a challenge to win by using knowledge as an edge! What if the greater advantage that wins is the technology that gets you there? What if-- some times, things have to make sense before fitting together? So what if my left front stays planted while winning! Do you still think horses are what totes a wheel?
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 12, 2014 9:07:57 GMT -6
What if knowing that adding 2 degrees of timing can perk your engine up several horses? What if-- 6 or 10 with RPMS and fuel to match can be 10 or more? What if they were that easy every where you looked? What if you never had to cheat to give more performance to a engine? What if -- anything that moves is looked at as a unwritten formula to be answered by thought only? So what you were more concerned that I may have posted in the wrong section than to get the message intended!!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 13, 2014 6:58:31 GMT -6
If getting it up adds traction then the higher it is the more you have, RIGHT!----- wrong-- With all the height comes variable factors by the track and not under driver control! Weight is determined by which end of the fulcrum you are on and the weight you have helping at your end! If your right rear spring is too soft and not held preloaded to start with to apply pounds by a movement, what is the point in the movement in the spring and chassis! Some see roll in steer and drive factors but at the cost of loss of four cornered preloaded poundage being of help to transfer to the rear with a movement range intact! Placing any weight up high or on the right gives way to helping the right side but by robbing the balance by adding to the amount of left rear through the cross increasing! This increase of left rear only makes the balance of rear traction father away in the split of pounds! I am simply saying that by doing what you can to achieve all the right rear needed to balance traction, you can have more total weight by holding the left steady with rear lead instead of more cross to have a better left rear poundage at all times! If the left front can only move so far in the air, wouldn't it be better to lower the cross and balance point or just switch sides with the cross to plant all the weight you want and need to match the higher left rear poundage with a left hook instead of a right cross? With the left rear lead and better transfer to the rear on both sides possible with preloads and less movement, drivability is better with less change of roll factors by the track!
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