|
|
Post by hairball12 on Jan 4, 2015 12:57:06 GMT -6
Hey all, we are running a Gen 3 firebird on a long sweeping 3/8 mile hard packed clay oval (Ohsweken Speedway for those who know the track) We have a 49% rear weight rule and a 54% left side weight rule with an overall weight of 3150lbs (3000 min with a 150lb penalty for a power glide trans) We are running 53.8% left, 48.7 rear and 3165lb total after the feature. My question is pretty basic, but we are the only Gen 3 Camaro/Firebird out there and we are pretty decent, but Im just curious as to what some set up options would be for these cars, given these weight parameters. Im not positive what rear springs are in the car as its technically not mine, however I can say they are REALLY light. We do not run a sway bar on the front and have heim joint rear lower arms.....I hope this is enough info. The engine is a GM 602 crate. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 4, 2015 14:10:51 GMT -6
Spring by axle weight and variations hold true as well as left leaned and variations in ride heights and shocks as to chassis reactions! Roof angle and rear spoiler is most important with the lack of rear percent! A raised rear will create more steer if needed by bar angle if not adjustable other than length! It should not need a open rear end setting but you can start with 1/8 to be safe until dialed in! The right bar should be higher than left naturally if left leaned! Left bar higher by 1/4" in the front than rear and rt. 3/4-1 1/4 on the right ft. more than rear to get steer and drive correct! 40-80 lbs. left rear! Is your rear with low fuel or full! If full ad at least what you can to the left rear corner to improve transfer and balance! The left ft. should have the weaker spring by 100- 200 pounds and have more preload of about the same with driver! These are to put things where when rolled to a more normal range of balance to give motion with out loosing pounds at each wheel for better control of their functions! I have only set one of these cars up for a bomber race but it hooked and handled great as it passed most with ease and grace!
|
|
|
|
Post by leaf4life on Jan 10, 2015 10:09:09 GMT -6
Changing spring rates don't necessarily change your % much in a static state(on scales)You should be more worried about the car in a dynamic state ( on track, mid corner)That's all done with weight jacks/lead(% static to meet your rules). What your trying to achieve with springs is a matching "roll angle". Look at a picture of your car in mid turn. Is the RF looking as if it's rolled over more than the RR? This will make your RF work harder. Not a balanced setup. A stiffer RF spring OR softer RR spring. You also have a stock pan hard bar in the 3rd gen than can be adjusted as well(if you can modify) the stock ones are weak so if you can modify I would replace it with heims and tubing.
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 10, 2015 11:03:32 GMT -6
Spring rates are more about having the correct pre-loads of compressed heights for the weight there and any placed there in order to allow travel and stay with in the springs working range for the direction and length of travel needed at that point! Ex.-- The right ft. is stronger than left ft. but the left front has more load as to be compressed and the right less loaded to allow nosing with out coil bind limiting more travel if needed! The left rear holds more than the right with cross, left side % and left rear weight of lead added to hold it down and run less compression on the rt. ft. to ease the nosing process! If all your left rear were jacked in it would limit ease and travel of nosing and loose left rear when nosing by changing the right rear cross numbers! I use the lead added to the left rear for many reasons as stated in other post with my kind of set-up! Normally a 25 stronger left rear will hold threw the cross as well as aid the roll if needed, it holds the heavier left side up and being preloaded more than the right allows the holding of left rear at all times! The nose is more about rt. ft. drop than the pivot across the other cross but more the mashing of it to insure the planting of the right rear when the left ft. is already preloaded more than the right! This gives you right side bite and traction just by lifting the throttle so you can turn on a dime before the roll!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 10, 2015 11:39:15 GMT -6
I have always tried to limit all movement of the left rear and allow more to happen elsewhere, not so much in travel but by the transfer of pounds as some do with more travel! If you go softer you will get more travel but just that until the spring reaches its preloaded state! Travel is more about steer or thrust angle if needed rather than pounds of transfer for added traction! With ride heights and preloads setting travel limits with good transfer you should only roll to a level or balance that looks like your just driving down the road! If it noses or rolls beyond limits it stays there by G-forces longer getting off the corner! A quickened recovery gives a better shot at timing the exit for better passing off the corner down low or up high with right drive angle and roll-out to see you on around the turn! The stock rear ends can't handle much stress, the straighter you keep it in the turn the more free it is to roll and the faster it moves! Use little roll-out and synthetic dif. grease to insure durability!
|
|
