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Post by jreep8 on Feb 6, 2013 18:43:09 GMT -6
I would like to know if there is a desired angle on upper control arms from front to rear. Should they be flat our up in front please help.
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Post by lizardracing on Feb 6, 2013 18:59:07 GMT -6
That's called prodive/antidive. The desired amount will depend on overall chassis design and front roll center placement and what characteristics the car is expected to have. There isn't a good or bad here but it should be thought as another part of the overall handling preferences.
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Post by jreep8 on Feb 6, 2013 19:37:16 GMT -6
We have a 2010 Jeff taylor mod that is very tight getting in> The car is great in the slick but will not go in the mud because it will not turn getting in. I was told there have been some antidive problems with the cars but do not know what to do to fix it .
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Post by leaf4life on Feb 6, 2013 21:30:00 GMT -6
My answer may be a bit vague but here it goes. The upper control arm must have some angle in it. Mostly the upper ball joint must be higher than the upper mount on the frame. As the car pitches to the right, you lose camber in the RF. instead of adding camber, you add more angle to the upper control arm so you dont lose camber as you pitch/dive.The best way to know if you need more is your tire wear. Even wear is a good thing, too much on the inside/outside of tire is bad. But finding your roll center is the key to finding out if you need more angle or camber. Google search your cars setup and roll center settings and see what you can find. Hope this helps
P.s.-also try contacting the chassis builder, they always want to see there stuff doing well
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Post by jreep8 on Feb 7, 2013 20:09:36 GMT -6
I understand the caster and camber I'm wanting info on the angle of the control arm from front to back not ball joint to mount. I understand that every builder has a desired angle. I'm just tryi g to figure out a good safe stating point.
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Post by confused on Feb 7, 2013 21:11:39 GMT -6
Lizard explained it as simply as possible. It may be your best bet to call Jeff Taylor
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Post by lightning on Feb 7, 2013 21:12:01 GMT -6
I do not have a Taylor car. But have played with anti dive on a metric clip. I was putting in anti dive in the right front. While running a real soft right front spring set up. So under braking it would stand the tire tire up. Making the tire appear to have a larger spring in it. But on high momentum track where there is little braking taking effect anti dive does not do a dang thing. Flat to 2 degrees between bolts would be max. JMHO
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Post by jreep8 on Feb 8, 2013 8:24:12 GMT -6
Thank you for the info
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Post by clbaker25x on Feb 8, 2013 8:51:13 GMT -6
On the right front did you do the back of the a-arm down or up to put more anti-dive in? Might be something to try on our stop and go 3/8 tracks here.
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Post by lightning on Feb 8, 2013 18:15:42 GMT -6
I bought two different A arm shims from Cole's. They slide between the arm and chassis mount. A arm sit flat on my frame. I was raising the front. There not high enough to change the roll center but 1/8 -1/4". Did both sides and then tried doubling up right front. Measure both bolts on the lower to see if the heights match. Some thing to check.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 3, 2014 16:12:50 GMT -6
20 things comes to mind if working on dry slick and not wet! All have to do with weight transfer and steer on all four corners to hold you going in! Running 6-12 caster moves crosses and angles a lot and have been lucky to get all to work by a greater transfer by just turning the steering wheel! A improved location can be made by you! Go for it, as you have the most info looking at it move and have played this game before! If car is flat you may need some short 2x4s to get it in the game! If using negative camber to control steer after rocked as a 4bar with short bars little caster is used! Other issues persist! I have had this and 4 rounds on lt rr lifted and loosed 20 ways but the rest was correct first! Wish they all were so easy!
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