|
|
Post by otiscampbell on Apr 9, 2013 18:13:21 GMT -6
Right or wrong, I had a set of changes I used to make to our 4-bar car whenever the track would go from tacky to dry-slick between hot laps and the feature. I would move the LR top bar up a hole to add some drive to the LR. I'd move the RR top bar down a hole to take drive out of the RR and I'd move the RR bottom bar down a hole to take some steer out of the car. (Starting from neutral bar settings, I moved both RR bars up 1 hole for hot laps when the track was tacky or wet.) If it got really slick, I'd move the J-Bar up 1/4-1/2" on the frame side to promote more side-bite and to bring the rear over to the left a little to help increase LR bite a little.
Now that I have this 3-link car with a J-Bar and a spring-loaded pull-bar, what changes should I make from base-line if/when the track slicks off? It would be nice to have a punch-list of things that I can do depending on the severity of the track conditions. For instance, do Step 1 if the track is a little slick, then add Step 2 if it is typical dry-slick and add Step 3 if it is like racing on ice.
Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
Otise
|
|
|
|
Post by duckhnter83 on Apr 12, 2013 14:47:09 GMT -6
I have a 3 link as well and would like to know what others do. I was told to move the pan hard bar or also move the left trailing arm up and right leave level. I don't know if either is right or wrong as I am just starting out and learning.
|
|
|
|
Post by lizardracing on Apr 12, 2013 18:58:21 GMT -6
Its best to adjust the driver. It's also the hardest adjustment to make.
A very general typical......tighten entry and the middle by lowering the RS bar. Sometimes if that isn't enough a PH change is also needed.
|
|
|
|
Post by confused on Apr 12, 2013 20:08:05 GMT -6
And sometimes a spacer on the LR. I would rather drop the j-bar on the pinion than raise it on the frame. This has a larger effect.
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 3, 2014 18:40:26 GMT -6
If you have it working good a quick change of ft or rear roll out can do the job if planed that way! I hate changes at the track and most drivers can do this if they see the need! Its there mistake if not! Good advice is hard to find sometimes! I hate spacers and off-sets! Too much flip-flop involved unless proven on your car and even then can be backwards as per 20 things change for good or bad! Air adjustments are the same way as flex and heat raises its back in a few laps and can go over where you were to start with or reverse compounds causing a push later. The same air every time yields a better view of what's happening! It too is set by driver! None ever seem to mind after a few wins and understanding why! With no choice of spacers or offsets even the drivers don't get confused over one number and no letters on the tire! I do have one tire rule! If its eating the numbers off the side of the right rear, check your gauge and tire for a leak! Even roll out get tricky changing so many things and should be scaled to see the numbers and angles first with driver!
|
|
|
|
Post by Toywagon on Mar 3, 2014 21:12:27 GMT -6
First and foremost take notes, good notes.
If your running one track nightly, its not too bad, but if you run 2 nights a week, or travel, you really need the good notes to remember what worked and what didn't at a particular track.
Ditto on what Lizard said about driving style changes. Dry slick takes a big change in the way you enter the corner. I would do a search on youtube for in car vids of successful drivers and listen to the engines, and especially watch their hands and how smooth and steady they are.
Your adjustments you want to make as the track slicks off are also subject to how well your cars baseline setup is. If you show up with a car extremely loose or tight, your scrambling to get in the ballpark, and chasing a track that is already changing on you. Once you get a car in it's sweet spot, its so much easier to make the little adjustments. My biggest decisions are usually determined by how well I qualify. If I can move thru traffic in the heat race and start near the front, or if I can't make it around all the zig zagging and have to start near the back, will be a slightly different adjustment for me. Either way, except for fuel load and sometimes a slight bar angle adjustment, for me it's just a change in driving style.
Hope that's helpful,
Jim
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 3, 2014 22:19:07 GMT -6
A lot of caster has helped weight transfer as to tighten or loosen with the turn of the steering! I have used this as a handling jenny for every car in all classes and designs! Left rear at a right turn hooking off the corner or saving a spin, it has won countless races at many tracks in 4 states as well as dodging wrecks! Driver steer and traction control but it has to be a package deal to make it work! You can't go in on your nose and don't have to pull a wheel coming off as lt. ft. holds left rear to the track for added traction and less push! I have seen cars on a rail if you will, that never even turned the front wheels on all fours! I saw a white late model Freddy Smith OO winner go from 4-3-2 to one wheel every lap and litter-ly flu and left every one! It looked like a Sunday drive as he had all the track to deal with transitions! A good shock system on that bird! We all do it different and yet win races!
|
|
