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Post by lizardracing on Jun 16, 2013 18:08:38 GMT -6
How do I keep the LR from loosening? I Check it every week but about every 4 or 5 or so I have to remove the drive plate and reset the bearing preload because the nut has turned slightly.
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Post by powerslide on Jun 17, 2013 7:41:38 GMT -6
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Post by billetbirdcage on Jun 17, 2013 15:18:41 GMT -6
Your locking system on your nut set up must suck, cause I have never had an issue with them on any LM I have ever been around.
also keep in mind if you use aluminum tubes they will expand when hot and loosen the wheel bearings, same thing on hubs. You need to set a little tighter then you would on steel stuff when cold or they will be overly loose when hot/racing.
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Post by lizardracing on Jun 17, 2013 22:49:21 GMT -6
 I do use the lock that looks like this. Suck? Yeah, sadly I agree. Steel tube, steel hub with aluminum drive plates by the way. I run inner axle seals(manufactured)and outer axle seals(made by me)and hand pack the rear wheel bearings. Cold, I set the preload to provide a slight drag when turning the hub by hand. Pretty much the same way one might do the front spindle on most street cars and race cars using stock type spindles. The lock is supposed to be sandwiched between the drive plate and retaining nut. I must have too much clearance there or something. The only thing I can think of is the bearings and races are worn to the point the nut is screwed on far enough to prevent the drive plate from holding the lock in place against it. The tang or "teeth" on the retainer lock aren't bent out of shape or anything it just doesn't seem to be holding it's position even if I bend the remaining teeth that don't line up to a slot on the retainer nut in the opposite way to help hold it in place. The bearings don't look or feel worn nor do the races. They are not new but are visually in good shape. I suppose the races could be pressed in too far, or the bearing are thinner than spec for these hubs. I haven't measured them because I don't know what the should be anyway. No numbers exist on them for look up reference. I've been using these hubs since 2006. I don't have any issues on the RS. The LS does have RH threads. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2013 7:39:30 GMT -6
View AttachmentI do use the lock that looks like this. The lock is supposed to be sandwiched between the drive plate and retaining nut. I must have too much clearance there or something. The only thing I can think of is the bearings and races are worn to the point the nut is screwed on far enough to prevent the drive plate from holding the lock in place against it. The tang or "teeth" on the retainer lock aren't bent out of shape or anything it just doesn't seem to be holding it's position even if I bend the remaining teeth that don't line up to a slot on the retainer nut in the opposite way to help hold it in place. The bearings don't look or feel worn nor do the races. They are not new but are visually in good shape. I suppose the races could be pressed in too far, or the bearing are thinner than spec for these hubs. I haven't measured them because I don't know what the should be anyway. No numbers exist on them for look up reference. I've been using these hubs since 2006. I don't have any issues on the RS. The LS does have RH threads. OK Maybe Im reading this wrong or something, but the lock goes on under the nut and you bend up a tang that lines up with the groove in the nut into the slot. Are you saying you have the lock sandwiched between the nut and the drive plate? Maybe I just dont understand what you are trying to say? Its early and I haven't had my coffee yet, LOL Dave |
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Post by billetbirdcage on Jun 18, 2013 13:26:53 GMT -6
without seeing the nut, I don't really understand how the thing works. I'm like racer96M, I think they may be a bend to lock deal like some factory trucks with floater axles.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2013 16:51:41 GMT -6
I have a Franklin QC with the same locks, no way for them to come loose if installed correctly.
Dave
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Post by confused on Jun 18, 2013 17:05:56 GMT -6
The locking ring goes between the bearing and the nut. If I remember correctly, the tappered side of the nut faces the locking ring.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2013 17:24:32 GMT -6
The locking ring goes between the bearing and the nut. If I remember correctly, the tappered side of the nut faces the locking ring. Yep, bearing, flat washer, locking ring, nut (tapered side faces locking ring) Tighten nut, spin hub and loosen until first tang on lock lines up with notch on outside of nut. I uses a Flat blade screw driver to pry the tang up into the notch on the nut. Install drive plate. Dave |
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Post by lizardracing on Jun 18, 2013 22:50:48 GMT -6
Don't tell anyone but I think I have been installing the lock rings wrong for about 7 years or so. No, Racer96m it's not that early in the morning. I have been installing the bearing first, then the nut with the taper facing out, the lock ring over that with the tooth bent over then the drive plate. It's makes a ton more sense to put the lock ring between the nut and bearing instead or relying on the drive plate to hold the lock. Man do I feel dumb right now. Geez. You know what? I'm gonna try it your guys way for 7 years and report back the results. Be sure to check back.(sarcasm, ain't it great?) Billet, the nut and socket look like this.   |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2013 8:24:55 GMT -6
I like that Socket!, I dont have one of those. I always just use a punch in the groove to tighten the nut, but Im old school. Just might have to get one of those. He who dies with the most tools wins! LOL Glad you got it figured out. You'll never have that problem again.
Dave
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Post by confused on Jun 19, 2013 16:05:29 GMT -6
I have one of those sockets. Really helpful tightening the nut up of taking them off.
p.s. The color is a good hint where to get one.
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Post by lizardracing on Jun 19, 2013 21:52:40 GMT -6
I made mine with a Vertical Mill and Lathe after a part failure and the punch trick wasn't working so I had to impromptu one at 2am so we could be ready for the second day of a two day show. It's way easier to pay the $25 for it I can tell ya. This one from your favorite purple tool sellers has a 1/2 drive so an impact works really well.
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