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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 5, 2014 11:04:34 GMT -6
Yep old school but like all other set ups it used a package to make it work! Removing the hike is first thing and if you can't, you can pull both ft wheels with a 400 horse 3 link, unless something is wrong! I lift both rear sides the same about 2-4 inches by the middle of the track! Topping out is loosing traction and most want to climb, running mostly left rear which has to tricycle to balance it on both rear wheels again and move the rear under the car 6 inches to add rear percent even to the point of chaining horses! Transitions as well as steer factors and drive wheel weight changes can de a hand full for drivers! My hat is off to the ones who can make this work as I have! I try to even it out between both tires with more rear 61-63 with less spoiler! Air can get heavy too! Its in the bars for traction and steer then with no transitions to deal with when wide open in the turn! Using a J-bar or short bar as a traction device changes all kinds of things and I too am guilty! When was the last time you saw a car stay on all fours and win? Have you ever? It is a sight to see! Check out my other post to get a understanding if you wish not to notch and strap your pipe. No biggie if so and safer!
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