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Post by jjack010 on Jul 14, 2013 19:04:32 GMT -6
Just picked up a race ready sport mod yesterday and was able to get to the track last night. In the 10 lap heat, coolant temp was at 210, which I was ok with. I'm in central TX so it's not unusual for temps to be in the 90's during evening hrs. During the 20 lap feature I finished the race but I was at 250 when pulling into the pits and then it shut down.
I run a 1/4 mile, semi banked dirt track.
When I bought the car, it had no air getting to the radiator so as a quick fix I drilled three 3" holed in the nose to get some air in there for my first race. Here is what I found so far:
The radiator is an aluminum double pass Griffin, 1-251-82-x.
Radiator cap is Stant racing 21-25lbs.
Pulleys appear to be 1:1.
Hoses have no kinks and I don't feel any restrictors.
OEM water pump.
SMALL 4 blade fan.
No shroud front or rear of radiator.
Previous owner had straight antifreeze in car. I drained it and replaced with straight water plus some "hyper cool" from Autozone. Suppose to help cool and I didn't have time to order any of the good additives.
I have found some of the fins on the radiator bent.
Fan is 1 1/4" from radiator.
My Plan
Drill several more holes in the nose piece to get air to the radiator.
Change out fan. I'm going to look for a large 4 blade. I do have a 5 blade that came off a large delivery truck with a sbc. Almost looks like an oem flex fan, appears durable and not cheap like some of the flex fans. I may try it out next week.
Install shroud on backside of radiator (fan side). I would like to eventually install a shroud on the front side to get maximum air into the radiator.
Give water wetter coolant additive a try.
Straighten out bent fins on radiator.
Your feedback is appreciated!
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 14, 2013 19:51:33 GMT -6
Finished my nose piece, I now have 19 2.5" holes circulating air to my radiator.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2013 0:05:03 GMT -6
I ran a closed off Monte nose and had a hard time getting over 180 on hot days. I ran a double pass rad. Stewart stage 3 pump, no restrictors (Double pass restrictive enough) I did have the water lines from the back of the manifold up to the water neck. A good tight shroud is key, 4 blade GM fan (Highest blade pitch available) 1 to 1 pulley,nothing cools better than H2O. I had a 4 in wide strip of plastic along the bottom of the rad hanging down to scoop the air up to the rad from under the nose. I had to block off the rad with a sheet of alum to get some temp into it before we raced. The airflow through the rad at idle would suck and hold the alum sheet to the front of the rad. This would be a good check for you, if it wont hold the alum, your rad is to clogged or your shroud isnt tight enough or your fan isnt the good 4 blade.
Dave
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 6:44:13 GMT -6
That griffin rad I have is 19h x 21w. I have a little more room and could fit a 23"w radiator in it. I'll keep that in mind. That lip on the bottom is a good idea. I definitely need to install a shroud.
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Post by street16 on Jul 15, 2013 11:05:54 GMT -6
I don't like the idea of running the "looks like an OEM flex fan", because it may be a flex fan. I race in southern New Mexico, 90+ evenings are normal here, so we know what it's like. I posted a reply in the Street Stock section of the forum that gives a fairly complete list of things that help keep temps down, and missing just one can cause an overheating problem. I've had good luck with the 6 bladed fans from Speedway Motors, but the OEM 4 bladed fans are supposed to be better.
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 11:51:12 GMT -6
I'll take a pic of the fans I have. I pulled the 5 blade off in the junk yard because it came off a large panel delivery truck. Same truck beside it had the same fan so they had to be produced for hd applications. I'll take a look at your previous post if I can find it. I'll probably test both fans with cardboard on the front of the radiator and see which one pulls more air.
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 12:17:10 GMT -6
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 12:48:24 GMT -6
This one measures 19". The steel 4 blade on the car is 15".  |
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Post by street16 on Jul 15, 2013 13:29:17 GMT -6
That's not a double pass radiator. A double pass has inlet and outlet on the same side. I like the 15" four blade better than the 19" five blade. The problem with flex fans is they flatten out at higher RPMs. Can you get a better picture of your lower pulley?
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 13:50:12 GMT -6
 Pulleys appear to be the same size. The radiator is a 1" tube, 2 core. I may be wrong but isn't a 2 core a double pass? |
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 13:56:32 GMT -6
I meant 2 row on my last post. Just pulled up some radiator diagrams and I suppose your right. (sigh) So 2 row means 2 tubes but they only pass through once?
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Post by confused on Jul 15, 2013 16:42:55 GMT -6
A starndard, 2 core radiator flows water in one direction. Driver's side to passenger's. A double pass flows right to left, then left to right. The bottom half flows one way, hit a divider, and then goes the other direction in the top half. That's why the necks are on the same side.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2013 19:59:00 GMT -6
 I dont like your fan, see how much more pitch is on the 4 blade fan? Im not running a shroud on the mod, but I do like a double pass rad. Dave |
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Post by jjack010 on Jul 15, 2013 20:51:30 GMT -6
 Has a 160 t stat in it and functioned properly. I was talking with another racer down the road and he mentioned he has a compression tester and leak down tester I can use. I told him I had a compression tester and decided to go ahead and check compression since I just got the car. Here's what I found........No change after oil in cylinders. Head gasket?  |
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Post by street16 on Jul 16, 2013 11:50:06 GMT -6
Before I'd yank the heads, I'd see where timing is set @ full advance. I don't like running thermostats in race cars - too much restriction and if it fails, it's exspensive ( I've had one of the fail-open Tstats fail, and it got really hot before it opened - 180 Tstat failed open @ 230). Me and my dad build all of our own engines, so if we have any doubts we will tear it down - gaskets are cheap compared to losing a motor. But if you're not comfortable pulling the top end off, have a pro do it. Assuming cylinder 6 is the one you are concerned with ( you can try this with every cylinder) I would put air in the cylinder and see if air bubbles appear in the radiator. I use a compresssion tester with a detachable hose, remove the Schrader valve with a valvestem tool, and hook it to my shops compressed air. Either remove the rocker arms, or rotate the motor until both valves are closed.
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