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Post by snakebite on Jul 23, 2013 11:54:47 GMT -6
I am having problems getting drive off the turns. My car is completely off the springs onto the bars and the car just bounces. Not sure if it is wheel hopping or bouncing on the bars. Everyone tells me I need to get it to stay on the springs. This being said because I run on a short 1/4 mile slightly banked track. What do I do to get my car back on the springs and off the bars. am running 175 Lr AND 150 rr with integra's avenger series shocks. thanks for the help |
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Post by confused on Jul 23, 2013 17:10:28 GMT -6
If I were guessing, too soft RF spring, too much angle in the LR bars, and too much pull bar angle. Is the LR shock in front or behind?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2013 18:11:26 GMT -6
You are spring behind right? 16" spring on left and 13 on right? Need some bar angles at ride height and on the chain, How much drop are you running?
Dave
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Post by clbaker25x on Jul 24, 2013 8:20:02 GMT -6
If you want to get your car so it is running on the spring more, just put a softer spring in the left rear. It is a simple math problem of the effective rate of your spring divided by the distance or height that you want to maintain when the spring is unloaded. We never get off our left rear spring on a 2 link, but probably run quite a bit more bite than you. We are significantly softer on our left rear than you are.
I would think with a 100 20" left rear spring the car would stay on the spring no matter how little bite you are running and no matter how far you need to travel.
The only thing with running a softer left rear is that it will tighten your car up quite a bit. What I really love about the soft left rear is that it doesn't shock the car when you get off the gas. If you think about the fact that what uncompresses recompresses when you get off the gas on corner entry, a softer spring will not have the car upset as much because it won't gain weight as quickly when it compresses on corner entry or decelleration.
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Post by snakebite on Jul 24, 2013 15:08:10 GMT -6
spring is behind shock in front on LR spring in front shock in back on RR. both springs are 16". Will measure bar angles tonight.
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Post by snakebite on Jul 24, 2013 16:41:55 GMT -6
RR upper bar 24degreed uphill. lower 5 degrees up. LR upper 25 degree up. lower 16 degrees up. pull bar is 18degrees downhill. 90-10 shock is 18 degrees uphill. LR brake floater is 24 degrees uphill. 3 1/4" drop from ground hight to were tie down strap and shock stops.
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Post by confused on Jul 24, 2013 19:16:04 GMT -6
The LL bar and the 90-10 have extreme angles in them. I would drop the LL bar to 8-12 degrees and the 90-10 toaround 6 degrees. 3-1/4" is not very much drop. Can you get more without topping out the shock or slider?
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Post by snakebite on Jul 25, 2013 18:40:41 GMT -6
no the shock is completely extended. the strap is set just before shock tops out.
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Post by clbaker25x on Jul 29, 2013 7:47:16 GMT -6
Not 100% sure on your total setup, but not sure why you would be running a 90/10 shock. My understanding is that the big effect of a 90/10 shock is to keep the car from unloading so quick on entry, which tightens the car on entry (from my understanding). Since normally most cars run mostly rear brake to free the car on entry I don't understand why you are still running the 90/10.
Too soft of RF spring, I don't see how that would be affecting the car being to free on exit. IMO, a softer right front spring will free the car and allow the left rear to jack and do what it needs to do. Your left rear and right front need to work together especially on the 4/4 floated setups to keep the car up on the bars.
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Post by snakebite on Aug 1, 2013 12:36:12 GMT -6
Thanks My front springs were 600lf 650 rf. I went down to a 550 RF. I had the 90-10 shock off at the beggining of the season but was having serious problems with car pushing so i put it back. I found that the problem was a brake issue and i just havent took the shock back off to try agian. What could be the reason the rear of my car is hopping down the strait aways?
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Post by clbaker25x on Aug 1, 2013 13:39:21 GMT -6
Do you have any videos posted on youtube of your car racing? I would be interested in see what your car is doing before making any guesses at what could be causing what you are feeling.
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Post by snakebite on Aug 4, 2013 15:01:58 GMT -6
Not on you tube but i could email some to you.
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Post by clbaker25x on Aug 6, 2013 15:37:49 GMT -6
If you want to email me the videos, send them to: clbaker25x@gmail.com
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rickd39
Fourth Place
www.duricaracing.com
Posts: 54 
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Post by rickd39 on Aug 7, 2013 10:03:55 GMT -6
I had a bouncing problem like that, I changed to a heavy progressive pull bar spring and that fixed it.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 5, 2014 18:04:23 GMT -6
Indexing on floater with springs are differential twist with j-bar can send it skywards! Watch the car on the ground or wheel lift and jack the pinion or car to see whats up! Some if floating can jack spring perches as lifting with index changes as length of bars and angles change indexing and spring mounts! Once getting out of working range of forward to upwards and off the springs! If a spring pull-bar is used movement, the angles have to be considered in the jacking up test. Ride heights as well as bar angles may need to be lowered as well as variations in them! If big changes are to be made go all the way back to square one and consider fuel weight as an important aspect to this problem! Think of the lowers as steer and uppers as lift changing pull bar angle loosing traction but at the same time all bars in a up hill push are traction! AS the car starts to lift moving the weight to the bars where the car is heaver for traction while shortening the wheel base adding more weight to the wheels! I never used any more than needed for steer and still could pull both front wheels with the pull-bar alone! we could hop all four off the ground to show off! Lighter cars, rake in wind-age and spoilers does come into play as well with lifted amounts! I hope this helped! Just some old school stuff!
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