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Post by tmeulebroeck on Nov 18, 2013 21:13:21 GMT -6
I have a 3 link setup with a swing arm on the left rear. The shock is mounted behind the housing on the left rear and I am on a coil over setup behind the housing on the right rear. There is a 250 spring on the left rear swing arm and a 200 spring on the right rear coil over. I have a 550 left front spring and a 600 right front spring. I am running a 2 in drop on the j bar one hole above center of pinion. The car is pushing like a fat dump truck even after I put a 2 off on the right rear and a 4 off on the right front. I'm running about 56% rear 54% left 50% cross and 40 lbs of left rear bite without the driver. I think the wheel offsets I am using are extreme but it's the only way I can get the car to turn.I would like to get the car to turn and be loose with 3 offs all the way around. I feel like I have tried all
adjustments to loosen the car. The only thing I haven't tried is increasing the left rear spring rate. I am running 15 degrees in the swing arm and 10 in the rr bar. Car has a throttle push in the center, so I lengthened rr rod and it got a little better, but still have to set it hard to avoid the middle push. Shocks lf 5/3 rf 3/5 lr 6/3 rr 4/5. Was thinking about slowing rebound on lr and increasing compression on rf. Also thinking about shit canning the swing arm set up, and consider a northern sport mod setup or something else. Please help
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Post by ukblue on Nov 19, 2013 4:19:34 GMT -6
Move right rear in front will help or on top
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Post by clbaker25x on Nov 19, 2013 9:20:28 GMT -6
If your car is that tight I would recommend softening your left front spring at least 50 pounds. Go to 500/600 and that should help free the car up on entry and through the middle. If your coil over is behind on the RR that will make a car really tight and can make it pretty erratic to drive.
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Post by tmeulebroeck on Nov 19, 2013 10:09:26 GMT -6
Any thoughts on increasing left rear spring rate? Any thoughts on how much left rear bite to run on a swing arm car? |
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Post by ukblue on Nov 21, 2013 16:44:14 GMT -6
How long is your swingarm like the last post said you could soften your left front for entry 500 or 450 and you could go a 550 on the rf to help loosen on the gas even less on a slick track or you could leave the springs you have and move the rr spring on top. If you move the rr spring in front that will loosen the car also some guys like that .Even with 40pds of bite the car is gaining a lot of cross with the rr spring behind Some guys that have ran swingarm lr with the spring behind the rear on rr run right rear bite in the car 50 to 75 pds also the car could be very tight on entry you have to adjust for that more stagger trail rr shorten lr run more angle in lower rr bar. You can make anything work ukblue
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Post by powerslide on Dec 11, 2013 10:53:28 GMT -6
I know i'm a little late to the party.... But, I agree w/ UKBLUE and clbaker. Unless you are on a really large sweeping corner track the spring behind rr is not the way to go. It causes the exact issues you are describing. Put it on top, let'er eat.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 2, 2014 7:23:08 GMT -6
A swing arm car has the spring mounted to the rear link! Works great to allow for more movement with-out changing the poundage too much. With the added leverage you need a heavier spring. If this was a swing-arm car, a simple 4 rounds to raise the lt. rear would loosen it 15-20 ways! More cross should let it roll, decreasing left side percent, putting more weight on the lt. ft. (100-200 with driver) to compress the spring so the right is not preloaded and will allow for transfer of weight and roll! While your shocks are fine for entry, you might use the same thinking as to getting off the corner! Straight valve shock has always worked for us on 1/4 mile dirt. Each car has it's on quirks and changing cars never helped much if you don't stop long enough to learn geometry! Basic geometry goes something like this, a spinning wooden 2" by 4" x 12' is best stood by if it is standing, for the angle change can be hard to figure while hoping threw the air or ducking your head. A lot changes with every move you make! try to consider the all in relation to every thing you do in relation to later consequences!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 2, 2014 8:31:16 GMT -6
Learning and understanding why and what helps with when! Let start with a Lug Nut! Note the capitalization as I respect all that helps us get to the front! 1.Size 2.threads per inch 3.grade of metal, 4.beveled angle 5. wrench size 6.Tourque specs. 7.static weight 8.turning weight 9.handling speed(If beveled on both sides and threads in good working order) 10.Does not play well with spacers, too short of a stud and too long of a stud! Did I miss anything? Names and terms are best learned to help in communication and may vary across the nations. Flat, tight, loose, shove, or push is different with designs and set-ups! Pounds of the left rear weight has to be addressed as more than bite. Spring compression and rebound is a key factor to understanding why the weight and spring has to give or push to help your car to roll! Visualize what you want to happen one corner at a time! Building a working model can help you see all the changes as to how steer comes in to play just by getting of the throttle!
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