dw8 USRA bmod setup

I am a old school kind of guy! You can make this work but has some ills as does most! Ck all my other post if you will as I have tried to explain my winning usage of these rates that still wins and is most drivable as 15 drivers have hundreds of wins. The split is what works 100-200 ft and 25-50 rear stronger rt ft and lt rr! Lean it left 1" ft 1/2-3/4 rear! on the frame behind ft wheel and ft of rear! Total weight of the car fuel and driver and ft to rear per-cents tell what springs you need! Heavy guy less ft split. a 200 pound extra load on lt ft to compress and hold the car off the right as to let it nose going in. Soft shock on the right stiffer on the left ft for nosing! 3 or 4s across the back! A 225 lt rear to hold you , the car , and to help roll over on the 200 on the right! some stager and 2 in offset in front with camber and 6-12 caster to twist and transfer weight to left rear when steering right or loose some when turning left. so much more. J bar 3-5 to start and bracket below pinion. need some info to proceed! 80 lbs left rear 51-52lt 52-54 cross with driver!

15 years ago we were doing todays set-up and hiking up and pulling wheels with 400 horses and winning! A night mare at best! Too many things changing with every new chassis to deal with the ills of drivers and crews! A simple adjustment changed too many factors for most to get a grip! Conspiracy! It would seem so as selling this or that to make it work! Guilty as charged! I made them all win there way but driver control was limited as changes to differ tracks and set-ups! I don't like having to change this at the track to fit so I started doing things simple and basic to take the factors down a bit! When with in a good working range, off sets didn't change much, traction wasn't a factor by changing horses for a car length or too to be able to move the car at full throttle in the turn! I have done my home work with-out a driver test lap! We just go and race! While not winning them all, a 8 of ten, 16 in a row' half, or 28 of 40 in 4 states is pretty good odds of it working on any car, track, or driver. Its steal a left handed circle with laws applied! Taking 6-8 hundred horses down in the corner to a movable 4 still has it advantages the same as a 4 wheel drivable car high or low! A good starting point is understand why! Too many other factors to say, but yes if high J-bar angle and extreme angles are to be used on the left for one wheel traction, pushes in transitions, and A fight of geometry is what you want! We have ran these spring and you can still swap if needed if ft percents will allow!

If you will read my other post you may see what you want! If you want 3 wheels or four on the ground! I can advise on any! On 3 of the corner with or with out j-bar! I have found we were faster, safer, steered to miss a wreck better and drivable anywhere on the track! Rear design would help as per bar set-up!  If shorter bars  2  or 4  on 3 link or four by our rules 3 link! Need more info on design!

That is a good car ( has less ills) if you keep things simple and use each part for it's original intent! I run my right side higher than left on the frame and bars as to even the traction, bump steer and 4 wheel traction as close as it gets, going in! 80 pounds left rear at times except when lifting to help turn for a mill-a second in the transfer of weight! A good rear percent with 150 added rear left as to recovery of traction is best! 61 rear percent comes easy with the right springs and I never had to raise or put weight up high or over the differential! Low, left and rear as I can get it all, including battery! The fuel is of a different concern as it goes away changing set-ups at the end of a race! Allowing us to be tighter if mounted to the right and lower as used to win in the last few laps as most tracks get slicker at the end and require more left rear to hook as well as hold to the high side by means of weight transfer to plant rr. harder!! Traction is best left to the pull bar geometry and a front mounted lower location can help traction with a solid pull bar with correct angles to plant when lifting with a shock to help bounce! With traction with out lifting but 2-4 inches, it should not be a problem. I like to start by pulling both front wheels and back off by putting this into forward drive to speed the car along its marry way by other means! Its not all rear percent but it will be a easement of the quest as to getting started! As for the added weight, a spoiler has more drag. Can you run one? Our track rules vary from track to track! (Point in case) If your truck is stuck and you need some help, where do you put them and if my 240 lbs. were in the cab with you would it help on 2 wd? The truck weight compared to gears and horses of your racecar would never even notice except when holding a trophy close by! The rear wheel weight for traction more than offsets sling when mounted low and left! I have lowered under slung only once, as a need to by ill design!  A good 4 fingers left and 2 right is all you need and if more is required a 1/4" x 2" flat bar will allow notching the pipe when welded first to the bottom with a slight added bend to improve for more if allowed by rules!