J-bar?

If use correctly with sweet spot of roll found a j-bar is fine! If used as traction device as most are along with steering on the throttle! They can get tricky to drive as they hold the left side down when off the throttle not allowing it to roll! If the driver understands he has to accelerate to loosen to turn it works with ills of its on! A right side mount is more drivable as well as a pan-hard bar if mounted correctly! Rear location with differential twist can make one roll when off the throttle and close the steer coming off the corner or if located properly not affect much either way depending on pull bars and springs as well as lift of the car in the rear! Any change affects so much and each has to be considered as most take a package to work with changes! A right side mount will pull the car down on the right instead of having to roll up and off the left. A Z-link is used to get twice the steer needed on the right. The pull-bar has to be angled to the right and low to lift it back (and being heaviest in mid car and rolled too adding even more so), the traction produced is off the charts and worked well on both kind of tracks. Of coarse its a package and needs high lt side weight as well as 200 left rear! A swing arm 3 link with a single right bar has to have a pull-bar movement added to open on lifting and close getting off! A winning car for us!

If differential twist is hiking from angle on the gas and tight going in a rear mount can solve the problem!

I de-test a j-bar left front mount as well as pan hard that lifts the lt. to steer under throttle. I have never made a lap but A to B is a straight line even with a arch or j-bar. Improving right rear weight with out loosing any the left or right,(with-out but gaining right weight by lifting the throttle before going in the corner in a semi steering mode) has been my QUEST on any class of car by transfer to be on right rear while running left going in the corner! Even leaf cars, 4, 6 or 8 cylinders! I believe this to be our SUCCESS, on any track in four states with weight limits applied to design of-coarse to make this work! Not one New chassis design have I not had to alter to win again! Driver errors, I think not as I have tried to please 35 years! 15 winning drivers and any 4 in a car testing lap times tells the tale! Any other drivers in one was amazed and said (no wonder)after one lap! Any may be made to work properly by its design and driver, But can it win by being able to steer around wrecks or while side-ways in the turn and hook any time you want! All this info is FREE and yours for the learning in theories of operations in weight transfer! Just check out all my post to get a better under standing if it! Have a very safe and faster season for all!

If you have read all my post in all classes it should help as to a simplicity of the putting things in there place to do a un-simple job as best and the simplest way as to correct the most ills of set-ups having less to deal with! A cruse control of sorts, as it has a broader range of being correct with movements while allowing drivability! The least angles and movement while soft to the track! Simply put, a pan-hard bar effect with a J-bar is best mounted behind the differential but if still on the left has ills as yet! A correctly mounted pan hard bar has less ills as to making changes to due to its movement. The longer the smoother with any bar! Design on chassis may require a short bar or J bar to make them work as they do have a good name as to solving other ills but is a transitional ill if used to hike the left and add traction to one wheel instead of just holding the rear-end where it needs to be to be able to make it work where ever it is on the track! Every set up is a package to be had with all having problems of sorts! A mounting position goes with your package to make it work! After winning so many on leafs with (no bars of any kind), a good understanding of springs and shocks as per weight transfer was easy! I know well and it's not easy for even me to grasp at times why they do such things to a chassis other than to complicate things so as to sell something new to cure the ills they have created! If every-one were on the same page it would be a drivers race of luck only! Driver weight would still have to be considered in the set-up just as much as fuel that goes away changing everything by placement! You may try envisioning your set-up with an invisible J-bar holding things to decide placement as to what you need with all the ills left for it to handle! There are not too many simple answers in this world as well as questions! I do my part to address both as best I can! So please keep asking why J-bar, as I do still! A 3"-5" front mount will not cure many ills if correct, but may show them to you most easily! Up or down on both ends to find a free point to deal with roll-center, and then up or down at the frame to best suit each car as to having the bars set each time you move even one! Complicated is the correct word! Not many quick replies will cure but one ill with-out creating 3 more but ills against ills can still win if done correctly! I too am hooked on this technological game of left fast to win with-out ever making a lap!

^^^^^ And one who likes to hear himself brag a lot.

A point well taken on bragging! As is in life, so is making thing shorter, I just want to point out the point that even a greater angle is fine, but buy it holding the car down, not letting it roll going in or steer unless in the throttle or you have to pull the right side down and not the left to plant going in the corner which is best done by a pan-hard bar on the right side to frame mount and lower pull bar angle to the right for a smooth transition with-out driver having to control it with his foot so much! Likened to a 5fh arm set-up which is well known for fast turning and planting used in conjunction with a J-bar to aid in the ills of its habits! Just trying to help others as to what won so many for us was the understanding to cure ills of set-ups and driver problems as well by letting things happen naturally instead of forced, to free the movement forward and left at the same time to increase corner speed going in on the throttle, means faster off! All kinds of set-up have and will continue to win races! Some are just more forgiving of tract to track adjustments and driver abilities! This is a direct message from under my shade tree where I do my best work!