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Post by dirtman15 on Mar 23, 2014 20:55:55 GMT -6
I am building a 87 monte for the class at our track they call it late model I call it hobby stock that has to run the small 2gc carb and cat iron intake which I am still trying to figure out what one would be best, I found one with casting #346260T just not sure about it. the rules state that must be stock appearing with this type of rule you can imagine some of the things that are being done to these cars some of which are very fast. blabbing on sorry. I am stuck on how high I should mount my rear spring buckets in the car so to leave room for adjustment, they are 6 x 5 buckets keep in mind they will be adjustable until the car is tuned a little for handling which then they will have to be welded at the screw to keep them from being adjustable. but I want to be sure to leave enough room to use spacer inside the bucket for adjustment, and at the same time I don't want to have to worry about a spring flying out of the car either. The only reason I ask is that I the few people that I see running buckets have them with about 3 inches sticking above and others with what looks like the whole bucket sticking above.
Thanks incase I forget
PS I am sure ill have some more questions about set up if I cant find the answer in the forum. I am new to this forum which by the way is great, so bare with me. |
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 24, 2014 5:59:47 GMT -6
While spring buckets have to be welded, they are not a needed to win! After running those types of classes for many years with great success, it is more about springs and shocks as a package that wins! Compressed heights of the springs is key as to the shock length! A taller spring does have more travel if needed but has less leverage applied on the right side as its location is father away from weight roll center but a plus on the left as to leverage and holding poundage! I on the other hand use a standard length to an advantage to be able to change poundage at the rear wheels with a simple turn of the steering wheel to control bite, tight or loose, and direction of push by traction to aide in drivability while on the throttle and driving in! Taller spring won't do this in a compress state with the poundage staying with movement! 3 inches is fine with straps that can be moved hole to hole if need be! I have used trany steel clutches as shims for adjustments as springs settle in! Check out all my post to get the order of giving the driver control over the set-up by use of correct packages in how things work! Glad to be of service!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2014 3:36:34 GMT -6
Higher is better, so I would weld them in as high as you can get them. Probably end up being 5 1/2 " tall.
Dave
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Mar 25, 2014 4:51:45 GMT -6
As far as a intake goes, I prefer to use the older ones with a spring choke mount! Keeping it cool with a non attached valley pan that is made for the purpose of heat and oil deflection and cutting out two exhaust block-offs and putting in with the gaskets made from tin! Just glue them to the heads before the gaskets go on! Cooling the engine to 150 degrees will be a trick but will give your intake an advantage of more flow saving the fuel for the job intended! Check out all the cooling and reduction tips to gain horses! Oil restrictors in the rear will help in keeping the oil down stairs away from head heat and your pan full with only the drag of a stock pump needed! This also lessens the turning weight of the oil having to be slung off! Three ways to gain horses for a few bucks by using oil restrictors! You will need bigger jets with theses up-grades in cooling! My 2brls have the power valve blocked off and use 83-86 Holley jets on GM or 4412 Holley!
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